TOPIC:

Wow it's awesome I found this website! Everyone thank you for the input, you especially 650d. So I will look at the manual, so we will see if it's the ignition system, coil, carb and anything else. Someone out there was asking if I work on aircraft, and your answer is yes. I've been around them all my life, I fly huge models like my 106" wingspan aerobatic plane with a 120cc engine in it. But I mostly work on full scale airplanes, like prop planes, such as cessnas, all the way up to the more advance (and more beautiful) P-51 Mustang. Thanks all for the help, I can't wait to pull her out of the garage and fix her!

650ed wrote: I recommend you hold off on replacing the coils or anything else until you get a Kawasaki Service Manual (see link in my other posting). The reason is that the manual gives very specific instructions on how to test the coils (and every other component) to see if they are operating withing the service limits. Rather than spending money and replacing parts that you hope are the problem, using the manual enables you to positively identify which parts (if any) are broken so you don't spend money replacing stuff that is actually working fine. It will help you fix the problem on the first try. If your bike is positively running on 2 cylinders, it could be a bad coil, but it could very well be a component in the electronic ignition system or it could even be carb related. It's even possible that none of the parts have a problem but that instead there simply is a loose or dirty connection or broken wire. Keep in mind, the connectors have been hooked up for more than 30 years and may have a little corrosion interfering with the current flow. Again, the manual will be a great help in diagnosing the problem. I would not even consider working on my bike without the manual, and I've owned my bike since it was new - April, 1977. Ed

650d, how does a guy get a service manual?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationIt is important that the service manual you buy is the correct one for your bike’s specific year and model, so I would suggest you first absolutely ensure that your bike is a 1980 KZ1000-LTD. Assuming it is, the official model designation is KZ1000-B4 (see partial list of KZ1000 models at the bottom of this posting). The list is from Kawasaki.com). Once you are positive of the model you can look for the manual on eBay. There are several different companies that publish manuals, such as Clymer and Haynes, but most folks will agree that the genuine Kawasaki Service Manual (published by Kawasaki) is the best as it contains a ton of information for your specific model. In the case of the 1980 KZ1000-LTD in addition to the KZ1000 manual there is a supplement that contains information pertaining to the LTD model. So, you will need the base manual plus the supplement for your LTD. Once you get the manual I suggest you spend time going through them very thoroughly. They contain an awful lot of useful information that will help you really understand your bike, what type of routine maintenance needs to be performed, the various mechanical and electrical systems, and how they work.

The first eBay image below shows an example eBay listing for the KZ1000 base manual you should get. If you do an eBay search, you might find several of them; just make sure the one you get shows 1980 KZ1000 the back like the one in the example. Don’t get one that’s marked KZ1000-ST; that is for shaft driven bikes, not chain driven ones.

The second eBay image below shows an example eBay listing for the KZ1000-B4 (LTD) supplement you should get. If you do an eBay search, you will find several of them; just make sure the one you get shows “KZ1000-B4 LTD” on the back like the one in the example.

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationNo eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configuration

650ed wrote: It is important that the service manual you buy is the correct one for your bike’s specific year and model, so I would suggest you first absolutely ensure that your bike is a 1980 KZ1000-LTD. Assuming it is, the official model designation is KZ1000-B4 (see partial list of KZ1000 models at the bottom of this posting). The list is from Kawasaki.com). Once you are positive of the model you can look for the manual on eBay. There are several different companies that publish manuals, such as Clymer and Haynes, but most folks will agree that the genuine Kawasaki Service Manual (published by Kawasaki) is the best as it contains a ton of information for your specific model. In the case of the 1980 KZ1000-LTD in addition to the KZ1000 manual there is a supplement that contains information pertaining to the LTD model. So, you will need the base manual plus the supplement for your LTD. Once you get the manual I suggest you spend time going through them very thoroughly. They contain an awful lot of useful information that will help you really understand your bike, what type of routine maintenance needs to be performed, the various mechanical and electrical systems, and how they work.

The first eBay image below shows an example eBay listing for the KZ1000 base manual you should get. If you do an eBay search, you might find several of them; just make sure the one you get shows 1980 KZ1000 the back like the one in the example. Don’t get one that’s marked KZ1000-ST; that is for shaft driven bikes, not chain driven ones.

The second eBay image below shows an example eBay listing for the KZ1000-B4 (LTD) supplement you should get. If you do an eBay search, you will find several of them; just make sure the one you get shows “KZ1000-B4 LTD” on the back like the one in the example.

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Well thanks my friend, you have been lots of help as to all the rest of you!
Thanks

Just brought her home, started it up and only 2 and 4 were not running. But here's another pic

Beatiful bike! you said bike hasn't been ridden for a while, make sure that you don't ride with 30 year old tires.

If 2 and 4 are not running, the problem could be plugs, caps, high tension leads (plug wires), or gas. If 1 and 3 are working, the problem is not in the coils or the ignition. It is either after the coils (and on to the spark plugs) or a fuel problem (which is ENORMOUSLY probable). You may need to pull the carbs off and clean them.

Remember, though, that this is a mint-condition original bike - PLEASE don't mess with it. Original equipment (whenever possible) only. It's too nice a bike to chop it's value by 90% by messing it up with aftermarket stuff.

Cynjut wrote: .....Remember, though, that this is a mint-condition original bike - PLEASE don't mess with it. Original equipment (whenever possible) only. It's too nice a bike to chop it's value by 90% by messing it up with aftermarket stuff.

+1 There aren't many left on the planet in that condition! You are VERY lucky to have it! Ed

Sexy. Well, considering it was probably stored a long time, I would clean those carbs. Secondly check wires, May be old and not making good connection. Assuming coils are good. Seeing as how you are a mechanic, you should have a solid foundation. My first guess would be the carbs. Clean all connections in fuse box an pin connectors to avoid having fuses blow later. I melted two fuse boxes so I think it's important to remove any oxidation. Is battery good? Not that many variables here to think about.