Clutch & cable problems for a '82 KZ 550 A3

TheDude wrote: What did you mean by this:

No as your original number fits the 900 and 1000.

No that you shouldn't be alarmed in your question above. Since stock fit both our bikes then I would think since we share the same style bar that you won't have a problem with this cable length.

I use the factory cable for my bikes, but they are a little long. I just route them differently to take up the extra slack, and get rid of some of the kinks and curves in the routing. But I can do this since I don't really run any gauges. With gauges, re-routing is more difficult.

Motion-pro cost less, and I've used them in the past.

Make sure to read the manual on lubing cables. That makes all the difference in the world for longevity.

loudhvx wrote: I use the factory cable for my bikes, but they are a little long. I just route them differently to take up the extra slack, and get rid of some of the kinks and curves in the routing. But I can do this since I don't really run any gauges. With gauges, re-routing is more difficult.

Motion-pro cost less, and I've used them in the past.

Make sure to read the manual on lubing cables. That makes all the difference in the world for longevity.

Yeah I don't have one of those little cable lubes, but I just hang mine up and gravity feed some oil into it before installing it.

Use some high temperature wheel bearing grease for the clutch ramp, as the engine gets very hot. Normal grease will run out at normal engine operating temps.

I'm hoping the new cable will fit.
What part of the bike is the "clutch ramp" and which parts am I greasing?

UPDATE:

I bought and installed the Motion Pro 03-0030 cable today. Thanks for the recommendation sbc,

I had about an hour to put it on and adjust it before I had to head to a Christmas dinner.

I adjusted it and it's much tighter than the previous cable was; it's not super tight though.

I warmed up the engine and shifted it to first, feathered the clutch lever but went nowhere. I gave it some gas and still went nowhere.

Any ideas what's going on?

One idea that popped into my head was the rod that the clutch release fits into on the bike was pulled out by my cousin to inspect. Was that rod something in place?

Glad it worked for you. Any clutch has to have free play or it will slip. The engine end needs to be adjusted right, then remove slack with the middle section of the cable and the top handlebar adjustment is pretty much for fine tuning. At the lever you have to have a small bit of free play which will increase as the engine warms to temp. This can fine tuned at the clutch lever as needed. If all this is done correctly and it's not hard at all and just takes 5 minutes to do after you have your sidecover installed. If problems persist then a clutch inspection may be needed.

I'll re-adjust the adjuster screw in the morning, but it's confusing cause I have no power to the back wheel.

Do you know if pulling out the rod that holds the clutch release have anything to do with the loss of power and connection?

It's all mechanical, just a simple set of springs on the clutch compress it, then through the cable and clutch release you release pressure slightly on the springs. May seem goofy, but I'd take the cable off completely, then use your feet like the Flintstones did to get moving, then see if the clutch is fully locked. It's easy to ride and shift without a clutch. If the clutch slips then you know you have problems well beyond the simple cable. If the clutch is locked ok, then the cable install should be a simple process, but if the clutch then slips you are adjusting the cable way to tight.

That's how I got the bike to my friends house after the cable snapped, push started it and matched rpms.

I'll ride it that way in the morning, that way I can know for sure its not the clutch.

Thanks for the idea Ron, and if it doesn't work well then I know its something else.

There is a 3/8" steel ball that can go missing when the push rod is pulled out. See #600 in the Clutch diagram. Also, be sure to turn the clutch release adjusting screw in the correct directions.

Edit: i may have misinterpreted what others have reported about the steel ball - perhaps they meant it can get lost when the clutch is removed from the bike?

martin_csr wrote:

TheDude wrote: I'll re-adjust the adjuster screw in the morning, but it's confusing cause I have no power to the back wheel.

Do you know if pulling out the rod that holds the clutch release have anything to do with the loss of power and connection?

There is a 3/8" steel ball that can go missing when the push rod is pulled out. See #600 in the Clutch diagram.
Also, be sure to turn the clutch release adjusting screw in the correct directions.

How can I find out if the ball went missing?