Clutch cable adjustment headache

I posted on here a while ago about replacing a snapped clutch cable. I finally got to it today and what should of been a hour job, tops, ended being an all-dayer.

I replaced the cable, took off the clutch lever and foot rest, took the housing off and slid the new cable into the slot. Place everything together only to see that the cable has way too much play!

Spent hours adjusting then we got it to go a little but the clutch doesn't catch. It's goes but when you gas it, the rpms shoot up but the bike stays in low speeds lol.

I don't get it. The bike was great before the cable snapped. I'm going to work on it some more in the morning.

Any tips??

Not sure what kinda of bike you have, but on the 1000s there is three adjustments one in sprocket cover and one in the middle of the clutch cable and one at the clutch lever. Do you have a manual? Adding your year and model would help us help you.

Does the new cable look like your old one ?

Z1Enterprises.com - Cable Clutch KZ550A - MP03-0006 <<<---

1982 kawasaki kz550 a3..

I bought a Motion Pro Black Vinyl OE Clutch Cable 03-0060.

I woke up today and spent about 3 hours tinkering with everything again. I routed the cable through different avenues. Pretty much I tried a lot of different ways.

My two problems I see are:
1)I have too much slack/give on the cable line

2) the clutch doesn't engage and provide power when u put everything together. I don't know if the clutch is slipping or something else.

I have theories to what is going on, but I'm a rookie bike mechanic, so I provided pictures for you all to get a glimpse of what I'm working with.

The first of my problems is I think the cable I have is for a different model. I have too much slack even when I tighten the midway adjuster and the handlebar level. I provided pictures of my handlebars as I don't know if those are stock handlebars or aftermarket. Can someone recommend a clutch cable that would fit a 1982 kawasaki kz550 a3.

My seconds problems is when I examined parts inside the left housing where the end of clutch cable mounts to I found something I think may be the problem of not having an engaging clutch. The housing that holds onto the 3 piece bearings has been warped. The grooves have been deformed. Is that why when I put in first and throttled all I got was a high Rev with no power?
I'm curious could this have happened right when the cable snapped a few ago, or is it do to something else?

Edit: One of the pictures included is off the top down pictures of my handlebars. I'm curious to know is that the proper Routing for the clutch cable to go through? It runs out of that hole, underneath the ignition and to the handlebar. It looks funky?

Normally they simply run the clutch cable to the left of the headight then clamp it to the left frame tube down between your #1 and #2 exhaust pipes down to the engine. Your bars are not stock, they are quite a bit lower than stock, so if you could get a shorter cable would be better. Motion Pro are always longer than stock because they take 10 or 20 or more different cables and make one cable to replace them all, so chances are the cable will be anywhere from an inch to three inches too long or more. Add that to your low bars and the cable may be nine inches too long for the motorcycle, but even with that, the adjustment works the same. Simply adjust til you get the proper free play at the lever. I can't see how this can be difficult. Put the cable on like the old one, chances are you pull in the clutch lever and will feel no resistance. Turn the inline adjustment and the knurled adjustment at the lever until you get proper clutch lever freeplay and you are done. No way in the world cable can cause the clutch to slip unless you tighten it up beyond the normal freeplay.

Thanks for that information. Would you know any brand clutch cables that would fit a shorter handlebar frame?

Motion pro clutch cables come in various lengths. Z1Enterprises.com lists the info w their cables. I changed the handlebars on my 650 twice & have installed several different MP cables. What I did was to install the new bars w the old cable, disconnect the cable at the lever, then figure out the overage. The straight drag bars may be a tad problematic in routing the cable, as there is going to be a tight bend there at the steering head.... you may want to use 2 frame cable clamps.

KZ550 Manual

I just had the clutch release stationed there to feel the tension I was getting on the clutch lever. Thanks for the heads up.

I see what you're saying with the cables. I measured it and the best I routed it was w/ 2-3 inches of extra cable. Other routing routes where either too tight or where located in un-ideal spots.

BTW, you where right, the Clymer manual I bought was ok, nothing special and a bit bland on the pictures,
I'm returning it and thinking of buying a Kawasaki manual or a Haynes manual. Or, maybe NO manual and a pdf version.