1980 Z1R Recently Purchased

I can only wonder at what shipping a bike back and forth would cost. I would think that it would be better to just rent one there. When are the big Z rallies happening? I could bring the flag over there to pass around.

saxjonz wrote: I want to learn EVERYTHING about this bike. I have fallen for it in a hard way.

I know how you feel... but let me just start off by saying you asked for this....

Before I start, if you really want to know everything buy this book:
www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Z1000-Z1-R-Crowo...assics/dp/184797144X

First, production numbers: Claimed '78 production is 17,392 complete bikes, while '80 is 3,308 bikes.

As for the frame, the steering head angle is given as 26 deg. for both '78 and '80, but the trail increased from 85mm to 101mm. My guess is the basic frame geometry was not changed, with the extra trail coming from the larger front wheel and a different offset in the triple clamps (unique part numbers for the clamps). More trail would make the bike steer more slowly, which should feel more stable at speed.

Marketing claimed the frame was updated to use double wall tubing, but the '78 has external bracing on the down tubes that I would call double wall tubing so I don't know what they added to the '80. Anyone else know?

The marketing also claims they shortened the swingarm by 1/2". However, they changed the drive sprockets from 15/33 to 15/35, but with the same chain length (92). Based on a web calculator, this rear sprocket change would shorten the wheelbase by 0.4", so maybe that's where this figure came from.

The springs in the rear shocks were softened (single rate spring instead of dual-rate). Apparently people complained that the 78 was too stiff. It looks like they also changed the front forks to use 10W oil instead of 15W, but it looks like they also changed the internal damping rod so the net effect is not exactly clear. But it looks like the goal was to make the ride softer overall.

The brake rotors got smaller in 80 (290mm to 250mm) with a new irregular drill pattern (to reduce noise apparently), but the front caliper pistons are larger diameter (giving more mechanical advantage) and the pistons have heat insulators so they could install sintered metal pads. The rear caliper also got insulated pistons and sintered pads. Claimed braking distance was reduced from 12.5m to 11m at a speed of 50 kph.

The rear master cylinder was changed to have a remote reservoir, along with the brake pedal and pushrod. The new MC still has the same piston diameter though. I believe the 80 Z1R had the same rear master cylinder and pedal as all other 79 and 80 KZ1000 models, while the '78 Z1R rear MC/pedal is unique.

Other details:
-Mk2 engine (many changes)
-Larger fuel tank, new fill cap
-revised seat cover (puffy cross bands)
-different front fender due to larger front wheel
-USA speedo max = 85
-4-1 exhaust changed to 4-2
-new side cover badge
-accelerator pump added to carbs (still 28mm)
-transistorized ignition replaced points
-totally different wiring harness (no central connector panel)

And now I'm really wasting your time.... the center stand lever was changed due to the left side exhaust. The headlight mounting ring was changed (no idea why). The fork ears were beefed up (even though the part number didn't change) by filling in solid what had been a circular cutout.

I'll stop now.

Yes, I am from Western Australia. We have just had 5 consecutive days at over 35 degrees so riding days are aplenty.

There is a Kawasaki Z owners club in WA (see website)

I have owned this bike since Dec 1977. The handling was always blamed on the frame and the front wheel, well I had the frame strengthened (After some very scary moments), steering damper and the GPz750 turbo swingarm and rear wheel assembly. This thing handles really well even with the 18 inch wheel.

i can tell you that my 1980 z1r is very noticeably heavier to stand up off the kickstand and push around the shop than any of the 78 z1r's that i own.

i have always suspected the 80's have heavier walled frame tubes.

leon

531blackbanshee wrote: i can tell you that my 1980 z1r is very noticeably heavier to stand up off the kickstand and push around the shop than any of the 78 z1r's that i own.

The claimed dry weight went up by 9 lbs, (542 to 551), and the curb weight went up by 11 (bigger tank?).

I'm surprised this small change (1.7%) would make the bike feel noticeably heavier, but maybe the weight/CG moved higher. The bigger tank would certainly move it up (assuming the tank was full).

I can say that the stubby little lever arm on the '78 center stand makes the bike insanely difficult to get on the stand. I'm assuming the longer arm on the '80 helped some with this.

Here is my question for the '80 owners. The low speed handling of the '78 is spooky, say when turning while slowly pulling out of a parking space or driveway. It often feels like it's going to fall flat on it's side, as if the steering head were a bit stuck and the front end wasn't tracking with the turn. Both of the '78 Z1Rs I've ridden felt exactly the same in this respect (even with new steering head bearings). Does the '80 also feel this way? Did all of the Z1/1000s feel this way?

531, I think you'll find that because the bike is slightly taller making it feel heavier, I rode a MK11 many years ago I felt the same thing, also the 18 inch wheel makes the steering feel quicker through tight bends (and still does), When I ride with guys on their new crutch rockets they can't believe that through bumpy tight corners the Z1R creams all but the best without any antics from the frame (although the shocks fade after while).
As you all might've guessed by now the wear on tyres plays a significant role in the way these bikes handle, new tyre = the Z runs on rails (any speed), half worn = starts to wiggle/ nervous at higher speeds, fully worn = just set the cruise control and let it go where it wants.
FYI the rear swingarm and wheel from the GPZ750 is 18kg and the Z1r assembly was 26kg, the 530 chain also makes a huge difference. Now all that's needed is for me to lose 20kg and this bike will fly.

dohc wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: i can tell you that my 1980 z1r is very noticeably heavier to stand up off the kickstand and push around the shop than any of the 78 z1r's that i own.

The claimed dry weight went up by 9 lbs, (542 to 551), and the curb weight went up by 11 (bigger tank?).

I'm surprised this small change (1.7%) would make the bike feel noticeably heavier, but maybe the weight/CG moved higher. The bigger tank would certainly move it up (assuming the tank was full).

I can say that the stubby little lever arm on the '78 center stand makes the bike insanely difficult to get on the stand. I'm assuming the longer arm on the '80 helped some with this.

Here is my question for the '80 owners. The low speed handling of the '78 is spooky, say when turning while slowly pulling out of a parking space or driveway. It often feels like it's going to fall flat on it's side, as if the steering head were a bit stuck and the front end wasn't tracking with the turn. Both of the '78 Z1Rs I've ridden felt exactly the same in this respect (even with new steering head bearings). Does the '80 also feel this way? Did all of the Z1/1000s feel this way?

Sounds like headstem bearings (overtighened) or a deflated tyre, I have tapered bearings and have no issues only the steering damper setting will make it harder to steer , if you think these things are heavy to steer, try an FJ1200, it always wants to drop when slightly off centre - scarey

If not already experimented, could try having the rear wheel on a 1" or 1 ½" thick board (such as a square piece of 2x12) when lifting onto the center stand.

Good Fortune!

Wow, that is exactly the thoughts I had going through my mind taken to the next level. THANKS.
This helps me quite a bit.

dohc wrote:

saxjonz wrote: I want to learn EVERYTHING about this bike. I have fallen for it in a hard way.

I know how you feel... but let me just start off by saying you asked for this....

Before I start, if you really want to know everything buy this book:
www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-Z1000-Z1-R-Crowo...assics/dp/184797144X

First, production numbers: Claimed '78 production is 17,392 complete bikes, while '80 is 3,308 bikes.

As for the frame, the steering head angle is given as 26 deg. for both '78 and '80, but the trail increased from 85mm to 101mm. My guess is the basic frame geometry was not changed, with the extra trail coming from the larger front wheel and a different offset in the triple clamps (unique part numbers for the clamps). More trail would make the bike steer more slowly, which should feel more stable at speed.

Marketing claimed the frame was updated to use double wall tubing, but the '78 has external bracing on the down tubes that I would call double wall tubing so I don't know what they added to the '80. Anyone else know?

The marketing also claims they shortened the swingarm by 1/2". However, they changed the drive sprockets from 15/33 to 15/35, but with the same chain length (92). Based on a web calculator, this rear sprocket change would shorten the wheelbase by 0.4", so maybe that's where this figure came from.

The springs in the rear shocks were softened (single rate spring instead of dual-rate). Apparently people complained that the 78 was too stiff. It looks like they also changed the front forks to use 10W oil instead of 15W, but it looks like they also changed the internal damping rod so the net effect is not exactly clear. But it looks like the goal was to make the ride softer overall.

The brake rotors got smaller in 80 (290mm to 250mm) with a new irregular drill pattern (to reduce noise apparently), but the front caliper pistons are larger diameter (giving more mechanical advantage) and the pistons have heat insulators so they could install sintered metal pads. The rear caliper also got insulated pistons and sintered pads. Claimed braking distance was reduced from 12.5m to 11m at a speed of 50 kph.

The rear master cylinder was changed to have a remote reservoir, along with the brake pedal and pushrod. The new MC still has the same piston diameter though. I believe the 80 Z1R had the same rear master cylinder and pedal as all other 79 and 80 KZ1000 models, while the '78 Z1R rear MC/pedal is unique.

Other details:
-Mk2 engine (many changes)
-Larger fuel tank, new fill cap
-revised seat cover (puffy cross bands)
-different front fender due to larger front wheel
-USA speedo max = 85
-4-1 exhaust changed to 4-2
-new side cover badge
-accelerator pump added to carbs (still 28mm)
-transistorized ignition replaced points
-totally different wiring harness (no central connector panel)

And now I'm really wasting your time.... the center stand lever was changed due to the left side exhaust. The headlight mounting ring was changed (no idea why). The fork ears were beefed up (even though the part number didn't change) by filling in solid what had been a circular cutout.

I'll stop now.

Well, I have a 79 and an 80 LTD which I feel handle equally well. Never had any issues of quick steering but on windy days trying to head in to corners just about all my nerves and balls were needed on the 79. I know I had a worn steering bearing and possibly swing arm bearings worn that were replaced. But on my 80 I could feel the forks flex after I rode my rexes with reckless abandon. After riding the Rex I realized just how much my kz's were flexing around aggressive corners. Now those bikes feel like they could just fall down going around corners. For big as those pigs are they handle with effortless aplomb in comparison to my LTD's. I have yet to ride my Z1r. It's killing me now that I had one opportunity with the weather and was advised against it and figured since it was new to me it might not be a good idea to ride it for three hours not knowing the bike and if there was any issues that needed tending to.
I remember that I would go out on a 3-400 mile day and would only feel comfortable taking hard corners after a few beers and the WFO throttle approach to corners. I guess throttling through the corners really made the bike set and stay the line as opposed to the normal way of riding.

dohc wrote:

531blackbanshee wrote: i can tell you that my 1980 z1r is very noticeably heavier to stand up off the kickstand and push around the shop than any of the 78 z1r's that i own.

The claimed dry weight went up by 9 lbs, (542 to 551), and the curb weight went up by 11 (bigger tank?).

I'm surprised this small change (1.7%) would make the bike feel noticeably heavier, but maybe the weight/CG moved higher. The bigger tank would certainly move it up (assuming the tank was full).

I can say that the stubby little lever arm on the '78 center stand makes the bike insanely difficult to get on the stand. I'm assuming the longer arm on the '80 helped some with this.

Here is my question for the '80 owners. The low speed handling of the '78 is spooky, say when turning while slowly pulling out of a parking space or driveway. It often feels like it's going to fall flat on it's side, as if the steering head were a bit stuck and the front end wasn't tracking with the turn. Both of the '78 Z1Rs I've ridden felt exactly the same in this respect (even with new steering head bearings). Does the '80 also feel this way? Did all of the Z1/1000s feel this way?

I have a couple bikes myself, the longer/lower bikes of equal weight push much easier than the "upright/original" bikes. Lower center of gravity, lower rolling resistance, at least when you're pushing it around the shop.
At any given time I have more than 1 stocker and 1 modded bike in my shop and I can honestly tell you, the shorter the bike in height, the easier to push around, they just seem lighter, guessing lower center of gravity changes it's personality Just an observation.

Les Holt

X2