replaced stator cover gasket, now bike won't shift

I noticed that my 81 kz305 was leaking oil from the stator cover after a ride, so like any good much I thought I'd better fix this. So I popped the cover off pretty easily and applied an RTV gasket then put everything back just the way I found it. after letting that dry over night I was eager to crank it up and see if it still leaked. the bike wouldn't start. my friend and I attempted to push start it, and that's when I realized it would not shift into second, only first and neutral. after push starting it didn't work, I attempted to jump it off my truck (ignition off of course) that failed too. I then decided to look into why it wasn't shifting. I noticed that the cover just behind the stator cover wasn't seated all the way. a rubber mallet fixed that. Bolted it back down and tried to shift again. Still no second gear, and it appears that the clutch isn't engaging very securely in first because I can roll the bike in gear. I've been racking my brain with where I screwed up and I just can't pin point it. if anyone has any ideas, I'm really looking forward to hearing some suggestions.

Hello, SeabeeDan, and WELCOME to KZr!

If a service manual is needed, likely find a download among these links:

www.mediafire.com/download/blzzn71mzzj/K...-+Service+Manual.pdf

kz750twins.com/?p=426

www.4shared.com/office/heh8vKgu/Kawi_Kz2...05_Motorcycle_Wo.htm

www.gobookee.org/manual-kawasaki-kz305/

Good Fortune!

Thank you! I'll have to thumb through those tech manuals.

Your bike's transmission has a lockout mechanism that prevents it from being upshifted when the engine is not running. As long as you can shift between 1st gear and neutral with the engine shut off the transmission is operating correctly. Ed

650ed wrote: Your bike's transmission has a lockout mechanism that prevents it from being upshifted when the engine is not running. As long as you can shift between 1st gear and neutral with the engine shut off the transmission is operating correctly. Ed

Am thinking the shift lockout mechanism also functions to disallow shifting above neutral unless the rear wheel is turning forward, which may be done by hand with bike on center-stand or rear wheel otherwise lifted off the floor.

Would perform the clutch push rod adjustment, which often resolves a slipping clutch.

Details are covered in the service manual, but the gist of it is to first assure slack in the clutch cable at the handlebar lever. Then remove the small cover plate near the shift lever to access the adjustment. Loosen the lock-nut. Turn the screw in until lightly seated. Back the screw out 1/2 turn. Tighten the lock-nut. Replace the cover plate. Adjust cable slack at the handlebar lever.

On some models the adjustment screw turns clockwise to seat. But on others it turns counter-clockwise to seat. So if the first adjustment effort is unsuccessful, try it again by reversing which way the screw is turned to seat.

Also, take a look at the diagrams in kawasaki.com where there's a lot of good info, including parts diagrams, part names, part numbers, models sharing same part, availability, etc. Here's a link for help with navigating the site and finding information.

www.kzrider.com/forum/13-bike-related/37...imitstart=0&start=20

Good Fortune!

I'll try adjusting the clutch first. But there's still the starting issue. I had installed a brand new battery and it started right up. Then after sitting a few days while working on the stator cover something happened with the starting system. charging didn't work and I couldn't push start it. Any ideas? Thanks again for everything guys, happy thanksgiving!

I replaced that rubber plug with a new one a year or so ago due to a leak. I also threaded new wires through the holes with heat shrink on them to better fill the holes up. A few strands of wire had somehow managed to work their way loose and ground out on the stator cover, resulting in no power/starting. I'd start looking right inside the cover, something is grounding out now.

Edit: Just noticed you had a 305, not sure if you have the rubber plug/wires coming out the stator like the bigger bikes.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I used the manuals and figured out how to adjust the clutch, and that's working as it should. And I inspected the wires coming from the stator and they were fine. so now I'm going to monkey with the carbs and try to get her to fire up.

Did you remove and replace the shifter? Is it back in it's correct location?

When d1agnosing a possible spark/ignition issue, it's helpful to recall that the charging system components (stator, rectifier, regulator) are basically irrelevant, because the engine should perform just fine for quite a long time (several hours) with a good fully charged battery and no charging system whatever. Running with the headlight turned on will draw down the battery faster.

The ignition draws from the battery, and cares only that the battery is charged.
The charging system functions to keep the battery charged.

Good Fortune!