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Head Re-torque Process
- daveo
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Can someone briefly explain the proper re-torque method? Does each nut need to be broke loose prior to re-torquing?
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- sbc1320
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1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..
Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
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- zed1015
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Some people like to slacken them off and re-torque but it's a waste of time.
I usually re-check them after 500 miles or so with the engine cold and that's it until the next time the head is off.
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- daveo
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1982 KZ1100-A2
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- sbc1320
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1980 KZ1000 LTD-B4(MK II engine) - Progressive suspension, MTC pistons, Dynojet Stage III, all wear items replaced, WFO paint scheme(1978), etc..
Past bikes- 2 1976 Kz900's, 5 1975-76 Honda CB750's, Honda 500 -4, Honda 250, Honda 125, Honda 100, Suzuki RM 250, Honda XL350, Kawasaki KLR 650, etc..
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- bemoore
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Proper torque depends on the fastener being in motion when the wrench goes "click". If you're not going to re-torque, fine. But if you DO re-torque, the fastener needs to be loosened a little first, then re-torqued.zed1015 wrote: Some people like to slacken them off and re-torque but it's a waste of time.
The force required to get two surfaces to start moving against each other is higher than it is to keep them moving. It's dynamic friction vs static friction.
If you just put the wrench on there, and push, if one bolt moves (but not all of them), now your head bolts are not all at the same torque.
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1
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- daveo
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The last time I went through them, one nut turned (broke loose). It rotated at least an additional half-turn before the applied torque clicked the wrench. The rest didn't turn, so is that one nut now tighter than the others? I assumed they were equal...hence my question.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- GPz550D1
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1981 KZ550-D1
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- bemoore
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Yes, that one nut is tighter than the others. I would re-torque them all again as follows:daveo wrote: bemoore
The last time I went through them, one nut turned (broke loose). It rotated at least an additional half-turn before the applied torque clicked the wrench. The rest didn't turn, so is that one nut now tighter than the others? I assumed they were equal...hence my question.
- Loosen one nut 1/8 turn or so.
- Re-torque THAT nut to spec, making sure that the nut is moving when the wrench goes "click".
- Repeat for the other nuts
You don't want to loosen more than one nut at a time.
77 KZ650C1 w/Kerker 4-1
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- daveo
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and I'm thinking of going to 45 with them, just to add a wee- squeeze.
1982 KZ1100-A2
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- Garn
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RegardZ
1 x 73 Z1 (Jaffa), 74 Z1A, 76 Z900-A4
1 x 73 Yamaha TX500 & 98 fzx250 Zeal
Sydney Australia
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- DFIGPZ
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42 ft lbs is plenty do not push your luck you can pull threads out of upper case as for retorque loosen 1 nut at a time and tighten to 42ft lbs repeat for other remaining head nuts also no more than a 100 in lbs on 2 outer 6mm bolts do all this with engine cold.daveo wrote: I'm uncertain about the torque spec, since these are not stock studs and nuts. They easily took the 42lbs/ft. initially,
and I'm thinking of going to 45 with them, just to add a wee- squeeze.
1984 750 Turbo
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