A sad story

This is why I don't lend tools, do work for family and friends and never loan money.

He should still catch a nasty beating for it....might knock the ignorance out of his azz.

Z1driver, before you do anything buy one 2.00 mm or 1.80mm shim and try it it may be Ok!.
If it is still tight you will have to pull the head off, however. you may get away with just tipping the valves. I noticed a few of the valves i have purchased recently are a bit on the long side, however, they do allow a bit to be taken off the tip.
RegardZ.

Had the same problem but my cause of bent valves was missing a gear change (and weak valve springs), that's why I have a dyna rev limiter. The scooter (Z1R) easily revs to 10,000rpm+ under power, so I set my rev limiter to 10,500rpm. I have also noticed that above 10,000rpm the shift is harder because I still have the original Z1000 crank which at these revs has a bad flywheel effect so I might turn the limiter to 9,500 to save my motor from the idiot turning the throttle.
I think that if you have correct valve timing and keep the cam chain tensioned and have good valve springs these engines should take an accidental 11,000rpm.

It sounds like you have gotten your question answered, So

I have one for you,

When do you get to ride his bike ?

And return the favor ?


Mike

I can picture this - "really I thought your Harley revved to 17,000 rpm redline".

Garn wrote: Z1driver, before you do anything buy one 2.00 mm or 1.80mm shim and try it it may be Ok!.
If it is still tight you will have to pull the head off, however. you may get away with just tipping the valves. I noticed a few of the valves i have purchased recently are a bit on the long side, however, they do allow a bit to be taken off the tip.
RegardZ.

Yes this is the plan to get a few of the thinner shims and give it a try. I would be much happier if the stems were using the middle shim thickness.

If the thin shims don't work, I got my factory manual back from the guy helping me and found the specs for the valve length. So at least I can have it done of need be. The length of the valve tip is measured from the large keeper groove. I simply did not have enough time with this particular manual before I gave it up. When the heads were done I was using an after market manual. While it's OK for some things, I've found the for real factory manual has it all over the after markets.

My C14 Rev limiter comes on at 11K with a red line of 10,500. It hard to watch the TAC on the C14 because the needle swing is so much faster than the 900's in the low gears.

The other thing I know is if the valve springs get old a weak, a missed shift could result I bent valves.

I want to thank everyone for the responses. Most of it I already knew but it's nice to have it reinforced.

In the end I am rather disappointed in the not so young man, he's almost 40 and older than my daughter. I would have been pleased with a donation or two to help ease the pain of trying to be a nice guy. I'm into this at least $700.00 so far. But once the valves are figured out the old Z1B will ride again. Z1 Driver

Z1Driver wrote: In the end I am rather disappointed in the not so young man, he's almost 40 and older than my daughter.

I would HAVE to let my daughter know what an irresponsible idiot this guy is. I (and I hope she) would want nothing to do with such an idiot. But I know what kind of battle that is. My oldest daughter, as a teenager, had an idiot boyfriend, and she wouldn't listen to a thing her mother or I said about him.

Well, I did talk to my daughter about this guy and got yelled at by the wife. The idiot not looking at the freshly restored TAC is all my fault somehow. Go figure. It's not like there is a bunch of junk covering it up. After all it is a naked bike.

testarossa wrote: I just wanted to point out that the stock tach might not be returning accurate rpm readings, and therefor the percepetion of the bike pulling to 11,000 rpm plus might be based on false information. Only a dyno test would prove otherwise.

You got me curious with that. I have 6 12,000 rpm tachometers and the ones that read smoothly all register the same give or take a little. Apparently they all lie and I've really been shifting at a little over 10,000. That is unless the Dyna2000 diagnostics are lying to me. The Dyna2000 says the highest I've gone is 10,476 which is at least reasonable. Still seems high to me.

I'm not an idiot that likes to rev the piss out of an engine if it isn't doing anything useful. Remove the tach and I will still be shifting at the same rpm. This newer generation has no clue about their bike. They need a shift light to tell when to shift instead of feeling and listening to what the bike/car is telling them and a rev limiter because they are deaf and can't hear valve float. Go figure someone bent valves. They have no clue what's going on, all they know is it's fun. There's a reason I don't let people drive my cars or ride my bikes.

In my case, I had the TAC and Speedo restored before the goofball rode it. One of the Checks the people who performed the restoration is check the TAC and Speedo for accuracy. If not on the money, they adjust till they are in. I would assume when my TAC now reads 9K the motor is turning pretty close to it.

That's a terrible story.....and I have three daughters! :ohmy:

I had my head professionally done several years back and one of the valve stems was too long....I called the guy and he had me send it back. A new guy helped him out on that job and didn't grind the valve stems correctly. I think it's worth doing it the right way now.

Also.....never leave home without it, it's cheap insurance:

They make valve stem height gauges. Very cheap. Get one and send it to the shop with your head.