kz1000p engine vibration

  • jakedude
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kz1000p engine vibration

22 Sep 2013 13:25
#607366
I recently purchased a non running 1988 kz1000p. I changed the oil and cleaned/synced the carbs. The bike runs strong but has quite a bit of engine vibration with RPM. I have no idea when the last valve adjustment was done. Could this be the culprit?
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  • MFolks
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

22 Sep 2013 13:52
#607368
If the engine has the automatic cam chain tensioner, get a manual one for better tightness of the cam chain. Follow the directions for installation.

This is a good one:http://www.clems-garage.com/CCT/
and a similar one is available at www.aperaceparts.com
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  • Motor Head
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

23 Sep 2013 00:29
#607417
Check the tightness of your engine mount bolts, as well as the condition of the mounts.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
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  • baldy110
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

23 Sep 2013 13:53
#607445
Define "vibration" if you are comparing it to alests a BMW then yes the KZ1000 vibrates more but if you are comparing it to harley davidson then it vibrates less.
My GPz1100 engine which is the same design as the KZ1000J is not as smooth as my KZ650 but it's not annoying.

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  • jakedude
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

23 Sep 2013 20:54
#607490
The vibration is tied to RPM. When riding if I put in the clutch and drop the throttle the vibration goes away. If I then rev the bike the vibration goes up and down with RPM. The vibration is rather fast. More like a buzz in my feet when I have them flat on the boards. Also there is a whirring noise. If I were to guess I would say it is coming from the overhead cam or from the timing chain.
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  • dbc92s10
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

23 Sep 2013 22:04
#607498
the crank is probably twisted
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

24 Sep 2013 01:33
#607527
dbc92s10 wrote: the crank is probably twisted
Find TDC with a degree wheel on 1 AND 4. they should match.
Check the motor mounts and swingarm bolt.
Make sure the rear top one isn't bent.
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

24 Sep 2013 10:57
#607576
Checking for a twisted crank will have to wait for the weekend. I sure hope that isn't my problem. When I bought the bike I knew it might be a pig in a poke. The bike only has 30k miles on it and looks good considering it is an '88. I have been riding for 30 years and have always worked on my own bikes. That experience tells me that the worse possible outcome is generally not likely. Maybe I got caught this time.

Keep the ideas coming. I'll keep you posted.
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

24 Sep 2013 22:13
#607653
Okay, I set it up for TDC on 1 and 4 and measured through the spark plug holes on 1 and 4. The measurements were the same (1.130). I measured several times after rotating the crank one full revolution and was never off by more than 0.002. I think that's pretty good considering the carbon on the top of the piston. So I don't think the bike has a twisted crank.
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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

24 Sep 2013 22:41
#607660
Compression Test. Valve Adjustment. Dynamic Carb Sync. Check these for Power Balance, if off it can cause uneven running/ vibration.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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Re: kz1000p engine vibration

17 Jan 2014 15:58
#619011
I believe my vibration problems are nearly done. I did a better carb sync and replaced the motor mounts. I would say the motor mounts were shot. When I removed them they pushed out with no resistance. The holes into which they fit were gummed up with rubber from the mounts which I had to scrub out with solvent and then clean with soap an water. I then had to drive in the new ones, lubricated with KY jelly, with a dead blow hammer. I'm in the process of adjusting the valves now. Several were out on the high side of the range. I did check the compression and found them all to be at 150 psi +/- 3 psi, which I believe is good.

Thanks for all your help.
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