Fork seal change, help please!

So I took the fork legs out and I then tried to remove the Allen bolt at the bottom of the fork leg. I can turn it but I can also see that the damper unit inside the fork inner tube turns as well. The Clymer says that "a special tool may be necessary to hold the damper unit from turning". Is there any other way? Bike is a 1979 1000 LTD. Thanks a lot for any advice!
Olaf

If you are just putting in new seals, you can do that without fork disassembly.
Pop up your dust seal, see the retaining clip, remove the retaining clip, then there is a washer, then the oil seal comes out the top.

The piece that is turning inside when you turn the Allen bolt is what’s known as the fork cylinder. As long as it is turning, the Allen bolt will never come out, and keep in mind that when assembling the forks a non-permanent locking agent is applied to the threads on the Allen bolt.

The top end of the fork cylinder must be held, or it will turn when trying to loosen the Allen bolt. Some folks have been able to remove the Allen bolt by leaving the spring inside the fork with the top bolt in place and using a powered impact tool to turn the Allen bolt. However, that does not always work, and when it doesn’t a tool must be used to hold the fork cylinder steady.

There are two different types of fork cylinder tops. One type simply has a round hole in it (see pic in first link below), and the other type has a hexagonal depression. Before selecting a tool you should use a flashlight or borescope to see which type is on your bike. If it has the hex depression you can make a tool by welding or fastening a bolt that has the same size head as the depression to the end of a metal rod. You then insert that bolt head into the depression and hold the rod steady as you unscrew the Allen bolt.

If your bike has the fork cylinder with the round hole you can make a tool (see first link below) like I did to hold it, or you can buy a tool (see middle pic / top row in second link below) to hold it. In either case you jam the tool into the round hold and hold the rod steady while unscrewing the Allen bolt. The Kawasaki special tool was basically a reamer that attached to a rod and was jammed into the round hole. Some folks have whittled down a broom handle and jammed that into the hole to hold the fork cylinder.

No matter which tool you use you will probably need to use it when re-assembling the fork because there is a torque spec for the Allen bolt, plus a non-permanent locking agent (like BLUE Loctite) should be used. Ed

kzrider.com/forum/21-tools/318027-budget...linder-holder#318027

www.racetech.com/page/id/70

Since the thing is spinning, it may leak if you don't go ahead & take it apart.
I don't know what will work best w your forks. Try carving then end of a hardwood rake handle into the shape of a wedge, then jam it in there, such as by tapping it with a mallet. I did that, laid the fork down on the floor & put a pipe wrench of the rake handle, then, using an allen socket & ratchet wrench, I stomped on the ratchet handle. I also applied heat to the allen bolt.

martin_csr wrote: Since the thing is spinning, it may leak if you don't go ahead & take it apart. ....

Excellent point! Especially considering pressure is applied when the forks compress under load. Ed

Great advice, thanks guys! I will take a look inside, and see what tool might work. I'll get back later and let y'all know how things are coming along!

Another option is this. You'll need a extra hand to help. Turn the fork tube upside down and have your buddy compress the fork all the way down. With the spring pressure it might help the dampner from spinning. Use a 3/8 drive impact with lots of air pressure and give it a zap. Sometimes it will break that allen bolt free. I took a 8mm allen wrench and cut the right angle end off to fit a 3/8 drive 8mmm socket
Thats the way I do it
cheerz
gregz

All great advice, thank you so much! I followed Ed's advice with the hex tool. Actually I did exactly what is described here. Popped out in no time!! Can't wait to hit the road soon

www.kz-1000.net/forkdamper

I'll have to go against the advice to use threadlocker. Don't is my advice. No need, bolt is hard enough to remove and it won't ever come loose. No offense Ed.

RonKZ650 wrote: I'll have to go against the advice to use threadlocker. Don't is my advice. No need, bolt is hard enough to remove and it won't ever come loose. No offense Ed.

No offense taken, I realize different folks use different methods. I just tend to play it safe and go by the book. Ed

All done. Since I will always get it out easily with my tool I used the locking agent. Again, thx for all the info!