engine rebuild need help ID ing the parts

got this motor from a friend that bought it off ebay a couple of years ago and I wanted to freshin it up with the hope of not putting a lot of money in it.It sure looks like it was used for running all out from the looks of it.
the head has 2 plugs per hole also drilled for nos I'm thinkin.
the bores measure out to 72.45 mm give or take.
had an oil cooler from the looks of the fittings.
not sure if the crank is welded haven't got that far yet.
I need help IDing the piston's and cams.

the numbers on the piston's are.....4024PS.....H31B7
The cams are CR100.
The numbers on the block are....KZT00AE094130

AND it's a twin plug head :woohoo: ! Good score!

+1 Good score on the twin plug ported head, it has the oil gate mod too in the pan...this helps prevent oil starvation. If you think the motor was used hard then you are likely to be putting more money than you think but hopefully not. Not sure about the NOS but what else could those big-ass bolts be doing in the inlets...a little weird. Sorry I have no idea on the cams/pistons, but along with checking on a welded crank see if the clutch basket strengthening mod was done too. Seems like the best thing for this motor is to completely strip it down and check everywhere for stress cracks etc....it's what I am doing to a Mk 2 motor I just got with a badly blown piston that was used in a Legend race car, if everything pans out OK I will use it in my build sometime this winter, what are your plans?

bluezbike wrote: +1 Good score on the twin plug ported head, it has the oil gate mod too in the pan...this helps prevent oil starvation. If you think the motor was used hard then you are likely to be putting more money than you think but hopefully not. Not sure about the NOS but what else could those big-ass bolts be doing in the inlets...a little weird. Sorry I have no idea on the cams/pistons, but along with checking on a welded crank see if the clutch basket strengthening mod was done too. Seems like the best thing for this motor is to completely strip it down and check everywhere for stress cracks etc....it's what I am doing to a Mk 2 motor I just got with a badly blown piston that was used in a Legend race car, if everything pans out OK I will use it in my build sometime this winter, what are your plans?

Where do they put the ports for the efi models?? It seems like i remember reading that on some of the efi models you had to block some ports to run carbs. Not sure if thats what this is. But its probably for nos.

well I did a search and came up with wiseco 1105 pistons and denco drop in cams the head has been hogged out for big cams so I'm not sure on drop ins I'll need to put em back and see what clearance looks like.
The one problem I found if I want to run the tach is this


Bluez...I am going to strip it down all the way. What do I need to look for on the clutch basket?

trying to ID this motor any links to numbers break down?
.KZT00AE094130

Looks like you got a great score. 72mm is a 1075, so not sure if you ran numbers to get a 1105. As far as tach drive goes it could be fixed or plugged if you didnt want a tach. On the clutch basket you will want to check the springs to make sure there not loose in the holes. Ive heard some people say that they dont like the aftermarket spring kit for a street motor. Also you will want to look for grooves wore in the sides of the basket where the fiber discs make contact.
By zedder.com, It appears to be a 1980 kz 1000 b4 ltd motor, which is a mk11 motor. So If they kept the same internals you should have a good start.

I agree with P-fan on the 1075...1105 uses 73 mm pistons. The clutch basket mod is where the 6 springs on the inside face are replaced with 6 equal size heavy duty springs and the 3 rivets are replaced with larger units and then welded on. Do check the condition of the inner surfaces of the basket where the clutch plate tabs rub....if as P-fan says there are any deep grooves it may be toast. Looks like my motor is also a B4. Looking forward to your buildup.

Powerstroke_fan wrote: Looks like you got a great score. 72mm is a 1075, so not sure if you ran numbers to get a 1105. As far as tach drive goes it could be fixed or plugged if you didnt want a tach. On the clutch basket you will want to check the springs to make sure there not loose in the holes. Ive heard some people say that they dont like the aftermarket spring kit for a street motor. Also you will want to look for grooves wore in the sides of the basket where the fiber discs make contact.
By zedder.com, It appears to be a 1980 kz 1000 b4 ltd motor, which is a mk11 motor. So If they kept the same internals you should have a good start.

Thanks powerstroke...1075 it is
I'm gonna try and get the tach drive fixed.
I did get some work done on it today just got to pull the cases apart.
A clutch plate is giving me problems I have them all out but one here's what it looks like I ran out of time but it just don't want to come out.



it looks like the tabs are pretty worn maybe that's what's hanging up? I'm gonna work on her some more.

bluezbike wrote: I agree with P-fan on the 1075...1105 uses 73 mm pistons. The clutch basket mod is where the 6 springs on the inside face are replaced with 6 equal size heavy duty springs and the 3 rivets are replaced with larger units and then welded on. Do check the condition of the inner surfaces of the basket where the clutch plate tabs rub....if as P-fan says there are any deep grooves it may be toast. Looks like my motor is also a B4. Looking forward to your buildup.

Thankz Bluez

Looks like the basket is done for...I can see some deep grooves in the top picture (very clear at bottom left part of the picture) where the steel plates have left a deep imprint, that will not allow the clutch plates to operate smoothly, and the surface of the last fiber plate (that is still stuck) is pitted up. I suspect that motor was really hammered hard. Hopefully that is the extent of the bad stuff...what does the crank look like? And the tranny? all the teeth and dogs on the gears OK?