Clutch Adjustment Procedure

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12 Aug 2013 17:09 #601048 by MajDSaster
Clutch Adjustment Procedure was created by MajDSaster
I am having some clutch slippage. Called my local mechanic today and he says it sounds like it needs adjusting rather than a shop visit, (sometimes I think he doesn't like working on my Classic, Vintage 1981 LTD 1000).

Anyway, can anyone give me a rundown on the adjustment procedure?

Current Ride: 2005 Kawasaki Vulcan 750
4th Ride: 1981 Kz1000 LTD (2008 - Storage)
3rd Ride: Wife (1999 - 2005)
2nd Ride: 1982 Kz1000 LTD (1983 - 2004)
1st Ride: 1977 Yamaha SX-650 (1981 - 1983)

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12 Aug 2013 18:22 #601055 by koolaid_kid
Replied by koolaid_kid on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure
Actually, what he wants you to do is to adjust your clutch cable. It has two adjustments, one along the cable itself and the thumb screw on the clutch perch itself. Your manual should give you the details and the amount of slack you should have on a properly adjusted cable.

1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.

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12 Aug 2013 20:02 #601069 by dadgonebroke
Replied by dadgonebroke on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure
I've heard some people mention that using synthetic oil in the motor seemed to make the clutch slip. FWIW.

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12 Aug 2013 20:35 #601073 by Motor Head
Replied by Motor Head on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure
There is a clutch push rod/ worm gear adjustment that needs setting before the cable. Loosen the cable, remove the small rectangular cover on the left sprocket cover. There is a lock nut and a screw slot. Once there is plenty of slack in the cable. Loosen the lock nut, turn the screw anti-clockwise to the left until it is free, then turn back to the right, until you feel it take up the slack. Now go back left 1/4 turn, then tighten the lock nut. Now adjust the cable for proper free play about 3/16".
Its all in the service manual.
www.kawiworld.com/index.php?option=com_c...icle&id=77&Itemid=99

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

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12 Aug 2013 21:03 #601077 by koolaid_kid
Replied by koolaid_kid on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure

dadgonebroke wrote: I've heard some people mention that using synthetic oil in the motor seemed to make the clutch slip. FWIW.

A valid point, although not exactly correct. You cannot use oils that are "Energy Conserving", they will make your clutch slip. Most automotive oils are like this, which is why I use Rotella T 15W-40 diesel oil in my bike. Diesel oil has the added benefit of extra sheer protection, which makes the gears in the transmission happy. Synthetics are fine as long as they are not Energy Conserving.

MajDSaster, what oil are you using?

1983 GPz 750
810 Wiseco, Kerker, K&N, DynoJet S3, Accel, Progressive, etc.

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12 Aug 2013 21:42 - 12 Aug 2013 21:44 #601094 by 650ed
Replied by 650ed on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure

koolaid_kid wrote:

dadgonebroke wrote: I've heard some people mention that using synthetic oil in the motor seemed to make the clutch slip. FWIW.

A valid point, although not exactly correct. You cannot use oils that are "Energy Conserving", they will make your clutch slip. Most automotive oils are like this, which is why I use Rotella T 15W-40 diesel oil in my bike. Diesel oil has the added benefit of extra sheer protection, which makes the gears in the transmission happy. Synthetics are fine as long as they are not Energy Conserving.

MajDSaster, what oil are you using?


+1 Your clutch may need to be adjusted, but the wrong oil can also cause slippage, but not because it is synthetic, simply because it is the wrong type.

The ingredients in oils have changed over the years. For example, today's Castrol GTX oil (and pretty much all other AUTOMOBILE oil) is not the same as it was in the 1980's. Back then it worked great in KZ bikes. But, things have changed. Early AUTOMOBILE oils contained zinc phosphorus compounds (ZDDP) to protect engine components from metal to metal contact. This was good for engines, but it was found to be destructive to catalytic converters. Consequently, in AUTOMOBILE oils ZDDP was virtually eliminated and replaced with different chemistry generically referred to as "Friction Modifiers." These work fine and offer good protection for normal AUTOMOBILE engines. However, today's AUTOMOBILE oil "Friction Modifiers" , particularly those in "Energy Conserving" oils, are destructive to wet clutches. KZ bikes (and many other brands) have wet clutches. As a result of these oil chemistry changes a distinction needed to be made between those oils which are suitable for wet clutches and those which are not. That distinction was documented by the Japanese Engine Oil Standards Implementation Panel (JASO). JASO developed a number of different oil specifications for different applications. The specifications that apply to 4 stroke motorcycles fall under the "4T Specifications." Within the 4T specifications the "JASO MA" class oils are specifically formulated for 4 stroke motorcycles with wet clutches, so you should use oil that has "JASO-MA" marked on the container.

There are synthetic, semi-synthetic, and non-synthetic oils that meet the JASO-MA standard and any of them will work ok. Rotella T is one of them; Mobil-1 Racing 4T is another (it is fully synthetic); and there are numerous others. However, using oils that are not designated as meeting the JASO-MA standard is destructive to KZ clutches. Ed

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
Last edit: 12 Aug 2013 21:44 by 650ed.

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13 Aug 2013 10:48 #601210 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic Clutch Adjustment Procedure
1981-83 KZ1000/KZ1100 Kawasaki Service Manual (pdf). Part #99924-1026-03.
I tried uploading it to the filebase w no luck, but you can get it at the following site.
KawiWorld - KZ1000/KZ1100 pdf

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