Spark plug hole thread chaser.

The threads in the spark plug holes are all intact, but it has become difficult to remove spark plugs when the engine has cooled.
While the condition of the threads are all very-good, will I create problems by running a thread chaser through all four holes, possibly loosening residue or some metal from them?
I would take care to lower the pistons, and make sure the valves are closed enough for clearance.

Put a bit of grease on the chaser to catch any particles you may loosen.
From now on, use a bit of anti-seize on the threads of each plug. Don't go overboard, just a small dab will do.

What spark plugs are you using and are you using the spark plug washers? I ask because if they are just a tiny bit too long and extend a little bit into the combustion chamber carbon can accumulate around the first thread and make them hard to remove. Ed

I wonder if this cylinder head was warm-hot when the threads were originally cut into it.
The spugs remove easily when the head is warm, but are tight when it is cold, even with anti-seize lube on the threads.
With that in mind, I may be smart to spin the chaser through while its warm, and again when it has cooled off some.

This head came from a donor low-mile 82 KZ1100-A2 last year in the spring. All threads are original and strong, with no repairs. The cam-cap threads take 12 ft. pounds of torque very well.

650ed

I'm using NGK BR8EIX platinum plugs that have washers, but they are pretty well flattened-out from repeated tightening.
The book calls for 20 ft. lbs. torque for the plugs...so that they be.

Nothing wrong with those plugs other than their cost.

Those plugs work well with the Dyna 2000, Mini-coils, and solid-core wires w/no resistor caps.
Cost-wise, ebay has saved me a lot of money through the years.

Actually, they work great with any ignition source. They are designed for long term systems, where you only have to change plugs every 50k miles or so. I use them on my LT1 where it takes hours to change plugs. They do not provide a hotter spark, the coils do. But they do last longer.

koolaid_kid
I will probably wear them out (from constant inspection) by next year, and thanks for your thoughtful advice.

i did a helicoil yesterday,same concern with debri going into the cyl and used a small tube duct taped to my shop vac to fish down in the hole when i was done...i greased my tap but some fell in...the small tube vacuumed the dropped in flakes out of the cylinder easy

if the threads are that tight cold a dn a dab of thread anti seize does nothing..chase ....but try for tdc imo when chasing...it would bend one with any tiny touch on the valve

trianglelaguna wrote: if the threads are that tight cold a dn a dab of thread anti seize does nothing..chase ....but try for tdc imo when chasing...it would bend one with any tiny touch on the valve

Correct. The anti-seize is to prevent this happening in the future, nothing more.
This should not have happened in the first place, so the thing to do is correct what ever issues are present and then prevent them in the future, which is what the anti-seize is for.
daveo, when you start to do this, go in a few threads, pull the chaser out, clean it, re-grease, and go a few more threads down. TDC is not so important as long as you do not go into the combustion chamber itself, which will only occur at the very last of the cleaning. You can judge this by comparing the chase threads with the plug threads. Just saying.