valve clearance too tight

angryeric116 wrote: Could you take the shim out of the bucket, measure the clearance, and get a shim to fit? I am having the same problem as the OP right now.

Ive never heard of anyone managing that. I would either drop shim size as already mentioned or a general rule of thumb. If you can not fit a guage under it but can spin the bucket with your thumb. Try droping one size and remeasure. If you cant fit the guage in and CANNOT spin the bucket with your thumb,drop two sizes and remeasure. Do you guys have a shim tool?

I have to ask, what is a shim tool?

koolaid_kid wrote: I have to ask, what is a shim tool?

Well your bike doesn't use it because of the shims being Under Bucket. But the 900/ 1000 have shims on top,so there is a tool for helping with extraction. It holds the Valve and spring down, so there is a gap under the cam to remove the shim. Factory tool being different than the Aftermarket.

Z1E has the factory versions and the inexpensive batwing version.

The batwing may be used without the lever part.

factory

factory copy

batwing

Good Fortune!

Thanks, Motor Head, I did not know that.
Patton, would this be the one?

Cool, I picked up two 2.00mm shims yesterday and I should get my Motion Pro bat wing tool in the mail tomorrow.
I'll keep you guys updated. Two of the clearances are I already checked and i was able to fit a .508mm and .3XXmm feeler gauges in there. So happy to be making progress on this project.

With the cam lobe depressing the valve (pushes the bucket down), may insert the batwing whereby the tool will catch the edge of the bucket as the bucket rises when slowly and carefully hand-rotating the crankshaft (using the 17mm fake nut -- not the 13mm bolt head.

When properly positioned, the batwing will prevent the bucket from rising when the cam lobe is moved away from the shim that's situated on top of the bucket.

With the bucket edge held down by the batwing, and the cam lobe out of the way, the shim may be removed and replaced.

Instead of fooling with the lever to press the bucket down for insertion of the batwing, I prefer using the cam lobe to push the bucket down for insertion of the batwing.

Good Fortune!

1 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe is depressing subject valve bucket;

2 -- insert batwing;

3 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe moves away from shim, and allows edge of "rising" bucket to be caught by the batwing;

4 -- remove and replace shim;

5 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe depresses subject valve bucket and loosens the batwing from where it caught against the bucket rim;

6 -- remove batwing, and go to the next valve.

Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: 1 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe is depressing subject valve bucket;

2 -- insert batwing;

3 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe moves away from shim, and allows edge of "rising" bucket to be caught by the batwing;

4 -- remove and replace shim;

5 -- hand-rotate crankshaft whereby cam lobe depresses subject valve bucket and loosens the batwing from where it caught against the bucket rim;

6 -- remove batwing, and go to the next valve.

Good Fortune!

Awesome, sounds easy as pie! Being an inexperienced engine builder, my thanks goes out to all of you.

ya the pry tool that comes with the batwing sucks. I also just wanted to add something. I read on another post that if you open both valves at the same time they can hit eachother. so keep an eye on what the other lobe is doing while you have the one pryed open