KZ440 83, right cylinder running really hot

Hello people,

I got this KZ440 I bought used and I ran out of things to do to get this running properly.

she has 17,000 KM, and is in good shape, when I first got her she was leaking gas from one of the carbs and was running HOT on both cylinders.

what I have done.

-changed the engine oil
-rebuilt the carbs with K&L kits
-cleaned them x3
-set float bowl height to about 2.5mm on both carbs
-set idle mixture screws to 2 3/4 stock.
-inspected the carb holders and boots. to make sure I had a good seal i made some gaskets for the carb holders.
-cleaned the airbox and air filter.
-cleaned the fuel tank
-installed an inline fuel filter.
-did a ghetto fix on the right exhaust pipe because the end cap was rusted to hell.


I have tinkered with it for the past 3 days and somehow managed the left cylinder to not run hott, but now it runs dead cold the manifold went from gold to a nice chrome look with little bluish discoloration and on idle I can hold my hand on the manifold for minutes.

and the right cylinder I get 1st degree burns in 2 seconds on idle, manifold had a gold discoloration to it.

I even went as far as 4 turns out on the idle mix screw on the cylinder and no change to temperature.

I am lost so help mee


p.s i'll post some pics soon.

p.s I also cleaned and lube the timing advancer and set valve clearances to .20mm, however I will check them again.

Would inspect the timing advancer to assure it's not frozen, and that the weight arm pivots are lubed.

Would remove both spark plugs and inspect spark quality as engine is being spun over (as if attempting to start the engine).
Supposed to be fat blue sparks on tips of both plugs.

Would also perform compression tests on each cylinder (while holding throttle wide open).
First is "dry" test.
Next do "wet" test by re-measuring after adding a teaspoon of motor oil through each spark plug hole.

What are the differences, if any, between the dry and wet tests?

Good Fortune!

1 ) How are your plugs? Make sure there is a crisp blue spark.

2 ) might as well check valve lash also to rule that out.

3 ) No gaskets for your carb boots. If they are that hard they may need to be replaced.
To check them for leaks spray with carb cleaner,water,etc.... if there is a leak the sound and/or the rpm will change.

Patton wrote: Would inspect the timing advancer to assure it's not frozen, and that the weight arm pivots are lubed.

Would remove both spark plugs and inspect spark quality as engine is being spun over (as if attempting to start the engine).
Supposed to be fat blue sparks on tips of both plugs.

Would also perform compression tests on each cylinder (while holding throttle wide open).
First is "dry" test.
Next do "wet" test by re-measuring after adding a teaspoon of motor oil through each spark plug hole.

What are the differences, if any, between the dry and wet tests?

Good Fortune!

One of the first thing I did was clean the advancer and lube it, it pretty much looks like new.
I also checked all my valves and set clearance to .20mm manual rec' 0.17-0.22

I don't have a compression gauge, I went to the local dealer and they want an hour rate for a compression check so 70.00 and I am not paying that much for a 3 min job. I am going to check local auto shops tomorrow and see if someone can help me out.

so then i keep fiddling with it and I found out my new left spark plug was fouled so I put another one in.

I did a spark check and I get a blue/purpleish spark but its not fat, it is a thin spark, I don't have anything to compare it to so I am not sure if it good or not, a video or picture for reference would be nice but I haven't been able to find one.

I did a check on the coils with the multi meter and got 2.7 ohms on the primary and 11.19k ohms on the secondary readings are within specs of it says in the manual


here are some pics i took of the spark plugs after a chop I did at about 5,000 rpm for about 250ft


and what is the deal with the right cylinder spark plug? it is all black with soot but the ceramic is white??


left cylinder

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right cylinder

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Thank you for the responses