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kz550 just rebuild but wont start
- rixrock
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I have been snooping around the site for about 2 weeks as I was just given an 81 kz550 that wasn't running. the old owner said it was pouring oil out of the bottom and had no compression. I am by no means a mechanic but figured with the Clymer guide I could do the work. I pulled the head, and found that the valve stems were so built up with carbon they were not seating. the pistons and the cylinders looked good so did nothing there. I lapped the valves and installed new gaskets all around. the oil gasket was missing about an inch of it . hence the oil pouring out the bottom. The cover was off on the ignition side and was completely gunked up. I cleaned it all up and got everything moving again
I expect the first questions will be.
1. do you have spark?- yes but it seems not to strong
2. do you have gas? yes in the carb and when I pull a plug it is wet with gas
3. is the kickstand up and the clutch pulled in? yes as well as the starter switch being on .
As I said I am no mechanic so please do not assume by my have having checked these items that I knew to check them in the first place. I looked at all the wisdom you all had posted and tried to track down from there where the problem might be.
Help!! summer is fleeing fast. and I just have to have some wind blowing in my face from riding down the road.
Rixrock
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- 650ed
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1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
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- rixrock
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- loudhvx
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If so, then it is possible you assembled it 180 degrees out.
This photo shows how the pointer of the rotor should point toward the "TEC" logo.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- loudhvx
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1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- rixrock
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- loudhvx
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rixrock wrote: Thank you. I will check this when I get home tonight. I did take it all apart, and thought it was put back the same , but I have done some stupid things over the years. also I noticed from your picture that the weight has a rubber idle stop. mine does not. will this make a difference and if so, where could I order some?
It's really just a tiny chunk of rubber with some sort of glue on it. You can probably make them.
However, if it is missing, you should do all of your ignition timing (after it's running) using a timing light at the full-advance mark. That is, you have to time it at higher RPMs so the timing pointer is between the two parallel line marks on the advancer. (As described in the manual.)
Then without the rubber stops, the idle timing will be slightly retarded. You then add rubber, or glue, or metal until the idle timing is at the F mark, where it should be.
In addition to making sure the rotor is pointing the correct direction, you should verify the right coil is firing cylinders 1 and 4, and the left coil is firing 2 and 3. Also make sure the right coil has a small black wire to it, and the left coil has a small green wire to it.
1981 KZ550 D1 gpz.
Kz550 valve train warning.
Other links.
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- The_Proletariat
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Have you glued them shut? If so it takes a lot of trial and error to be able to start the bike regularly. I took a lot of life from my starter during this process
1982 Kawasaki KZ550 LTD
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- rixrock
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rixrock
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