Cylinder studs/main bearing studs/cap brace

So while i'm getting my cases put back together i'm trying to plan for the rebuilding. I am definitly going to be replacing the cylinder studs, but what about adding main bearing studs and a main bearing cap brace? I'm planning on using an MTC 1075cc/10.25:1 piston kit, stock head, cams and carbs. Are bearing studs and a cap brace overkill or is it a definite addition? Also, anything else i should be looking at upgrading/replacing on the bottom end/cases while i'm at it?
as always, advice/comments/concern would be much appreciated,
J.H.C

Always a great idea to build a strong bottom end to support you adding horsepower so you lower the chances of hurting the motor.
Has your crank been welded ?? This is a must when it is apart
Install a new cam chain every time you split the cases/ cheap to do while apart
I run APE lower end studs and main cap plate just because I can
I have a home made aluminum windage tray in my motor and a cam chain guide installed on the main cap too
Put a hinged gate in the oil pan to while its apart to keep the oil near the pickup, also home made
Backcut the trans so it doesn't pop out of gear and over rev the motor

Hope this helps. At least have the crank work done , if nothing else

Dave

Kind of what i was thinking, a cheap insurance and easy enough while the cases are split. i had been contemplating the welded crank, however i didn't realize the necessity.
Who are the go-to's for getting your crank welded?
J.H.C

I had Falicon do my work but that was many years ago. New owners now so I cant say.

John Pearson seems to be the name I hear a lot on this site. Don't forget the new cam chain...

The cranks are beyond old now....ancient is closer to the truth. It's worth having the crank carefully inspected and welded. Pearson is the guy to send it to. No question about it. Fair prices, good work. He's a one man operation for the most part so he does get bogged down from time to time. Turn around may not be instant but it will be right when you get it back.

You don't absolutely need the cylinder studs or the main cap support....but if you do it now and decide to add some HP down the road with cams and porting....it's ready to accept the upgrade. I would not reuse the stock 8mm crankshaft bolts under any circumstances. At least do the crank studs from APE.

I recently heard that Carolina Cycle purchased a bunch of crankshaft rebuilding equipment from Falicon.

What year Kawasaki are you putting together ? I have a super nice 77/78 Kz1000 crank ready to go with a HD 16t Falicon pin and roller crank thrust for sale email me at b.flood@myactv.net

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