Kz550a1 clutch issues?

Okay so I just replaced my clutch in my kz550 but I can't seem to adjust it correctly. I have the factory service manual and follow all instructions. One thing I am unsure of is when you adjust the screw on the side of the sprocket cover. It says turn in until it gets hard to turn then back off 1/2 turn. It doesn't seem to get hard to turn. I assumed this meant when you feel resistance so I did that. But with the bike on the center stand in first gear with the clutch in the tire still spins. Also with the clutch lever in on flat ground in first gear it feels like it wants to creep forward

Perhaps there's excessive slack in the clutch cable which could be removed by adjustment at the cable perch and at the mid-cable adjuster.

The cable should be adjusted so that only very slight movement when first squeezing the lever will take up the slack and push the end of the rod adjuster screw into contact with the push rod.

The remaining movement in fully squeezing the lever against the handlebar grip should be serving to disengage the clutch plates.

It's normal for the rear wheel to turn on the center stand when the engine's running, even if the clutch lever is fully squeezed, whether the transmission is in a gear or in neutral. But should be able to prevent it from spinning by holding it with your hand.

When replacing the clutch, were factory Kawasaki clutch plates fitted (and not some after-market plates)?

If the plain steel plates were re-fitted, were they checked to assure being truly flat and not warped (which could cause clutch drag despite correct adjustments of slack and push-rod)?

Am uncertain why the push rod adjustment screw doesn't seem to be meeting resistance when screwed in far enough to contact the push rod.

Could experiment by reversing the manual's directions about which way to turn the adjustment screw in order to lightly seat it, and also reversing the manual's directions about which way to turn the adjustment screw 1/2 turn in order to provide the gap that assures full engagement.

Good Fortune!

When you replaced the clutch did you use a torque wrench when tightening the clutch spring bolts, and if so, what was the torque spec you used? Ed

If the motor is actually later than a 1980 A1, the adjustment will be different from the FSM instructions for 1980.

Do you know for sure which type of adjuster you have? There are two types: a helical-throwout, and a ball-ramp.

The early type is a helical-throwout. Later is the ball-ramp.

The helical actuator is described in the white base manual starting on page 22 (29 of the pdf).
The ball ramp type is described in the white base manual on page 319 (326 of the pdf).
There is a link to the white base manual, (and several others), in my signature.


There is also a description for the pushrod adjustment in my signature for the ball-ramp type, showing how it is laid out pictorially.

my bike is a 1980a1 says made is 1979 on the frame sticker.. got it fixed i think now.