Rotor Removal Problems

I am trying to remove the alternator rotor on my 83 kz1100 in order to replace the starter clutch parts. The Kaw Service manual says to use the special tool, which of course I don't have. Clymer says to remove the clutch cover and stuff a penny (US or Canadian is not specified HOYT) or a clean rag, folder several times, between the primary drive gear and the clutch ring gear. I have removed the clutch cover and am having a difficult time locating the parts/ position of the placement of said penny or folded rag. Can anyone help this novice?

The gears you are looking for are the ones behind the clutch hub assembly.

You should be able to just put it in gear and have a friend hold the rear brake to keep the engine from turning so you can wrench it off.

I'm having a real issue removing this bolt. The engine turns no matter what. Should I start looking for a factory service removal tool?

For some more info,
click here > www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/399151-kz-porn

Good Fortune!

Lot of info. I sift through it. I'll probably need it. But my current problem is removal of the rotor bolt.

nivlac wrote: I'm having a real issue removing this bolt. The engine turns no matter what. Should I start looking for a factory service removal tool?

If you put the transmission in first gear and place a 2x2 (or other appropriate piece) between the spokes of the rear wheel (ONLY if it is an alloy wheel - not wire spokes) and swing arm in a fashion that prevents the rear wheel from turning, and then try to remove the bolt, does the engine still turn over? If so, you may have a secondary problem with your clutch. Ed

Whatever you have screwed into the rotor, make sure it's as tight as you can get it, then smack the end of it with a hammer with a sharp rap. You're not attempting to pull the rotor off, it's a taper fit so all you have to do is move the rotor .001" or so and it will fall off.

There's a bolt that goes through the flywheel and screws into the end of the crankshaft, which bolt holds the flywheel onto the crank shaft.

This diagram points out the mentioned bolt.





Questions -- is it this particular bolt that's difficult to loosen and remove by turning it counter-clockwise?
Is the crank shaft turning while attempting to remove the bolt?
If the rear brake is applied (or other measure taken to prevent the rear wheel from turning) while attempting to loosen the bolt, does the crank shaft turn even with the rear wheel locked in position?

If crankshaft movement is preventing loosening the bolt, while the rear wheel is locked in position, the clutch may be slipping for whatever reason, but perhaps a clutch push-rod adjustment might allow the clutch to fully engage.

Good Fortune!

nivlac wrote: Lot of info. I sift through it. I'll probably need it. But my current problem is removal of the rotor bolt.

I'll try and answer the question asked, this time :blush:

Do you have a hammer impact driver, the thing you use to loosen case screws? Most of those have a 3/8" socket drive visible after you pull off the screwdriver bit holder. Put the appropriate size 3/8" drive socket on there, and use the hammer impact to loosen the bolt. Be absolutely certain you are attempting to turn the bolt in the right direction, because you can actually break the bolt using this method, if you apply enough effort.

Hope that's more helpful



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