fair price for head work

Hey all I'm going to tear into my bike next weekend (maybe) and was wondering what you all think is a good price for having some head work done. All I want is a three angle valve job and new seals after it's cleaned up of course. I have no idea who could do it around here so I'll probably have to send it out.

Post edited by: donthekawguy, at: 2006/07/03 09:05

Anyone, anyone?

Don, You may be approaching this from the wrong direction. Look and measure before deciding what to spend money on. Once you decide to spend money on stuff, make sure you spend it wisely somewhere that WILL do the job right and not shop for a low-bid. First, remove the head from the bike and examine the combustion chambers for crud. Most of the time, a poor seal is just crud... carbon build up. Disassemble the head and wiggle the valves in their guides. If the guides are worn, this needs to be addressed. It is now time for a new (used) head or replacement of the guides which AUTOMATICALLY means a VALVE JOB (maybe new seats depending on wear) and you might as well do new valves at the same time... big bucks. The new guides will put the very center of the valve is a slightly different spot on the valve seat face... this phenomenom is called valve concentricity. Since the valve is hitting a slightly different spot on the seat, the seat needs recut. ALL valve jobs are done with three cutters (3 different angles).

If I were redoing your top end, I would first disassemble the head and clean it up good. Try and wiggle the valve stems in the guides and see if they are fairly tight and don't rock. If they rock, you need guides... they normally won't (in most cases). If you find they do, you may want to shop for another used head where the valves are tighter in the guides due to the cost of the ensuing work... If they are GOOD in the guides, I would lap the valves into the seats. Then I would measure the valve stem lengths using a digital caliper. If they are in within spec, I would reassemble with new valve stem oil seals. If not, I would check to see if they could be ground (end of stem) to bring them into spec. If not, new seats are needed and then again, I would shop for a new head.

Like I said, I tend to look for used cylinder heads on eBay that I can get reasonably and clean them up, lap and install new seals. I can do this work in about two hours and will have less than $125 generally in a good head. After buying parts, and getting machine work done, your rebuilt head won't work any better and will cost at LEAST three times that amount. If you do decide to rebuild your head, don't be afraid to send it to a well respected bike machine shop... like APE or others that I could recommend.

If you do decide to send it out I also vote for APE. They know these old engines and do quality work at a fair price. The only negative I can think of with APE is turn around time. They get swamped and like to do their heads in batches so it can take over a month sometimes to get a head done. Best to call and find out what's up though.

or maybe call around to see if someone has a head ready to go sitting on shelf that would take your head for a core,might save you some time.

These two web pages list prices. If you are going hi performance (like oversize valves and porting) it's not hard to spend $2000 or more. This should give you an idea anyway. Keep us posted on the project.

www.aperaceparts.com/headwork.html

also www.skracing.com/Services/Services_frame_page.htm
and click on "porting" and then "2 valve".

79MKII wrote:

These two web pages list prices. If you are going hi performance (like oversize valves and porting) it's not hard to spend $2000 or more. This should give you an idea anyway. Keep us posted on the project.

www.aperaceparts.com/headwork.html

also www.skracing.com/Services/Services_frame_page.htm
and click on "porting" and then "2 valve".

ya had to remind me that didnt ya?:sick: ive got 2 big inch bruisers at the machine shop now,good thing ive been collecting stuff for years so i dont have to buy a lot of parts,but its still painfull!:S

APE performed my 615 Big Bore swap, and would have had everything complete in less than a month, but the 615 "slugs" were on a backorder. I also had them rebuild the head while it was there. I sent them 2 complete heads, and 2 cylinders, so spare parts could be used if needed. Exhaust guides were the only things they had to add to the better of the two heads. Excellent work, Great packaging for the return products, and great communication by Taige. They do get busy year round, so allow for the time. It's worth the price. All I need to do is get the time to reinstall everything. You might want to replace as many seals, and o-rings as you can think while you're in there.

Yeah, Tage was the guy I worked with at APE too, great guy, very helpful!