New 750 head install - big problems!

Hi folks, I have had some major problems installing the 750 head I got into my 1982 KZ650 CSR.

First thing... For everyone who is reading this and wants to know, the 82 CSR comes with a HYVO chain, so swapping 750 cams into the motor is not a problem. Also the head fits perfectly with no modifications.

Now the trouble.

Firstly, two bolts that secure the camshaft stripped out before even getting close to becoming torqued down properly. It turns out it was the bore (what the bolt goes into), can I just use any old insert to repair this or do I need a timesert (the best, so I've heard)???

Secondly, a bolt securing the head to the cylinder broke leaving most of the bolts contents in the cylinder's bore (the bore for the bolt, not where the piston goes), and the rest on the ground. Whats the best method for removing a broken bolt if there is no part of the bolt outside of the bore to grab onto?

Thirdly, my mechanics hand told me that the cylinder-head connecting bolt should not be torqued down to 16-20 ft-pounds, but my book told me this was correct. I did what the clymers said against my better judgement and it broke. Anybody able to confirm this number?

Shucks
Peter

The head hold down bolts go all the way through the cylinder into the case, so if you remove the cylinder block you should be able to unscrew the bolt.

My manual only covers up to the 1980 model, but it calls for 13-16 ft lbs for the two small head bolts, I think they are 6mm and 22 ft lbs would be too much IMHO.
My 750 manual is unavailable at the moment, so I don't know what it says.

And agin IMHO, Timeserts are best, but HeliCoils will work.

Post edited by: steell, at: 2006/07/03 02:40

Thank you for your reply.

However there is no bolt that connects all the way from the head to the case on the 650 (there are 12 studs that go all the way from the case to the head though)

The bolt I am referring is one of the two bolts that just connects the head to the cylinder, these bolts are only 4.3cm. I have removed the head to gain access to whats left of the bolt in the cylinder. However there is nothing left of the bolt for me to grab, its just completely covering the bore.

I actually only tightened the bolt to <16 ft-pounds before it broke, perhaps new bolts are in order once I fish this one out.

What a hassle
Peter

I was not sure which bolts/studs you were talking about, or whether you were calling the studs bolts, so I guess I was a little confused

There are a number of ways to get the broken part of the bolt out;
(1) Drill press and left hand drill bit
(2) Machine shop with EDM
(3) Small drill and screw extractor (Easy Out)
(4) Alum purchased at a grocery store/Swimming Pool supply store/etc and made into a paste and packed into the bore will disolve a steel bolt while leaving the aluminum untouched.
(You can do a Google search to confirm, I know it soumds strange )

There are two 6mm bolts at the ends and toward the outside. I suspect he is talking about these. He was likely using the torque spec for the cylinder studs to tighten these and since these bolts only need tightened in the neighborhood of 100 in/lbs, I suspect it caused the bolt to snap. If there is insufficient material to use vise grips after removing the head, buy some hard drill bits and using a hand drill, drill the broken bolt and retap OR take the head to a machine shop and let them remmove it as they are better equipped. Their drill press and precision hardened drill bits are more likely to do a good job drilling this bolt than a hand drill.