Torquing Cam Covers

I'm getting ready to use plasti-gauge prior to installation on my cam journals. I have become increasingly paranoid concerning over torquing in view of aluminum's strength or lack of it. Should I torque the caps to specs when checking with the plastiqauge? If I don't torque to specs am I getting a true reading. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Free bump, I'm in the same boat and would like to know as well!

What spec's are you going to use? The Kawasaki shop manual has incorrect torque listings for the cam bearings.

Kawasaki Cam Cap Bolt Torque

Cam Cap Bolts - 8ft/lbs and no more. Oil the threads before you install them. Make SURE the dowels pins have the tapered end pointing up toward the cam cap. Drop of oil on them and inside the cap boss hole where the dowels slide in.

Remove the 17mm cap nut, spring and split plunger to unload the tensioner. You need to do that when ever the valve cover is removed to prevent over tight cam chain on J motors(which the Police Kawasaki is).

Do not re-install the split plunger, spring & cap nut until after you have the valve cover installed.

The covers should be tightened to 87 inch pounds, as they are M6 X 1 in size.

MFolks hit the nail on the head. 8 ft.lbs. or 96 inch pounds. I would only use a clicker-type inch pound torque wrench. I would not trust a foot pound torque wrench at that low of a setting. I never in my life ever used a needle type torque wrench either. Tighten each bolt just a few threads at a time to bring down the cam caps. Never tighten one bolt all the way down. And make sure the cam cap that locates the cam to the head is correctly over the boss on the cam.

If the cam moves just a little, your plasti-gauge will not give you a correct reading. I don't think you will get a true reading with plasti-gauge unless its done on a disassembled head.

The 1977 - 1980 KZ650 manuals call for 95 - 113 INCH pounds torque for cam caps. I've used the low end with no problem so that's a good match for 8 ft pounds (96 inch pounds). BUT, as Dr Gamma says use a torque wrench calibrated in INCH POUNDS not foot pounds. Keep in mind that torque wrenches are not very accurate within the lowest 20% of their calibration, so using a heavy duty torque wrench may not result in the torque you expect. I've used both the pointer type and clicker type. Either will work if they are quality tools of the correct range and calibration, but I strongly prefer the clicker type as it is much easier.

Regarding oiling the threads - I have seen other recommend this, but I do not do that at all as it will result in greater tension than expected (see links below). All the torque values in the Kawasaki Service Manual are for use with dry solvent-cleaned threads. Ed

www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubric...-effects-d_1693.html

www.stlaroc.com/features/torqtips.html

These guys got you covered on the torque specs and assembly. So to answer the plasti-guage question; yes you need to torque itall the way down for an acurate reading