Tight valves = no compression?

I'm trying to revive a 750e1. One of the first thing I did was to check the valve clearances. Only no.1 cylinder was within spec. 2,3,4 were all too tight (less than .038, my smallest feeler gauge.)
Out of curiosity, I ran a compression test. No. 1 showed 130 psi. 2,3,4 didn't even register. I've ordered the appropriate shims from BB in the hope that correct valve clearances will cure the problem.
Am I on the right track here?

Yes

Sounds like it

Yup the camshaft knob is basically pushing on the valve even at TDC which opens it just slightly so that the compression leaks out

when you say cam shaft "knob" what do you mean? the cam lobe?

STILL waiting for my shims to come in from BB and crossing
My fingers. I like their sight, but they are slow!

Finally got my shims from bb today. Now, I don't have the FSM,
Just a Haines manual. Is their procedure for the cam installation
correct? I really don't want to bugger this up!

There are several posts already on valve/ cam timing for the 750 4cyl. I think there is a link to a download for the FSM from a web site also. kz.bike-night.com/ You can use the search function here on KZR, but Google works better. If you see pictures of the Camshafts, taken from the #4 cylinder right side of the bike. Showing the Cam Lobes and the Notches on the end of the cams, against the valve cover gasket surface, all set straight along the surface, you will understand if the cams get set correctly.
2 things I'm wondering, If you had 3 cylinders Not Register compression. Did you loosen the cam bearing caps a turn or so and get some valve clearance, then re-check compression? That would have helped you determine if the Adjustment would gain something. If not, and you ave access to a air compressor, you can do a leak down test. Better with the gauges, but even without you will hear the air escaping from the valves at the EX or Carb.
Patton has the Poor Mans Leak Down test all lined out in this post: www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/585734-an...uestion-1981-kz750e2

your so close to getting the head off now, that I'd hate to see you have to back track. but I guess its good practice for getting it back in time.

I wanted to do a leak-down test, but I don't have a compressor. I
Like the idea of loosening the caps. Hadn't heard of that before.
Thanks.

geohaydook1 wrote: I wanted to do a leak-down test, but I don't have a compressor....

Could use a portable compressed air tank.

Good Fortune!

When you get the cam into the correct position to measure the gap and it is less than .038mm give the tappet a push with your finger or screw driver to see if it turns. If it does then there is some gap if it don't then there is no gap at all

Woohooo! after adjusting the valves and getting the cam timing spot-on ( took two tries) we have compression! One valve is still slightly tighter then spec., but now I'm getting compression readings of 120 psi + - . Only bad news is p.o. stripped out the upper cam chain tensioner bolt hole. My guess is he didn't lock it down before he removed it. I'll try to tap it out and if that doesn't work try a heli-coil. Never done one of those.But we're making progress! now all I've got to do is build some carbs and fix the electrical!