starter clutch repair?
- mrdatsunturbo
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- mrturbo Norway
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starter clutch repair?
22 Apr 2013 13:15
I have done the forum search but can not find the answear, i am a little stuck here.
I have replaced the spring ,rollers and pin .
The starter is replaced,
Changed the big Wheel With tooth on Nice surface.
Tried two different sizes on rubber damper 6,3 and the bigger one.
So when i try to start it will be normal in 2-3 second but then it will
be very noisy and stop spin the starter.
Also checked the Three bolt behind rotor.
Is there more to do?
My engine is a KZ1000(no key) With Z1R rotor and the bolt is tight.
Thanks
I have replaced the spring ,rollers and pin .
The starter is replaced,
Changed the big Wheel With tooth on Nice surface.
Tried two different sizes on rubber damper 6,3 and the bigger one.
So when i try to start it will be normal in 2-3 second but then it will
be very noisy and stop spin the starter.
Also checked the Three bolt behind rotor.
Is there more to do?
My engine is a KZ1000(no key) With Z1R rotor and the bolt is tight.
Thanks
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- MFolks
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 00:59
Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S
1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:
A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).
2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.
3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.
4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.
5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.
6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.
7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!
8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.
9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.
10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.
11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.
12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.
13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.
14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).
15. A video on how to do this repair:
1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:
A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).
2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.
3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.
4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.
5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.
6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.
7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!
8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.
9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.
10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.
11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.
12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.
13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.
14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).
15. A video on how to do this repair:
1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)
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- Jrbrownie00
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 09:49
do the above instructions relay to a kz750 ltd?
82' kz750 ltd.
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- Patton
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 09:57
Here's a recent thread with some good info.
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/57992...starter-motor#579921
Good Fortune!
www.kzrider.com/forum/4-electrical/57992...starter-motor#579921
Good Fortune!

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
KZ900 LTD
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- baldy110
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 13:22Jrbrownie00 wrote: do the above instructions relay to a kz750 ltd?
No, completly different engine.
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- Kitten Tooth
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 13:31
My 81' KZ1000 had a starter clutch issue when i first got it too. The 3 cap bolts that hold the clutch to the magnetic flywheel came loose and it rattled all over hell. Sounded like a rod bearing cap was loose. If you go through the whole assembly make sure you replace them bolts with Grade 8 bolts.. not cheap ones from a hardware store or they will sheer off. Also use red locktite and torque them down or its gonna work great for a while and then that rattling noise will slowly fade back during a ride and scare the crap outta you
Also, buy the 15 dollar flywheel puller that threads in to push the flywheel off the crank. Ive only used it twice but it was worth every penny.

1981 Kawasaki KZ1000-K LTD
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH
DO A BARREL ROLL!!
1983 Suzuki GS300L-D
1982 Suzuki GS300L-Z sold:(
1976 KZ400D3
1973 Z900... I WISH
DO A BARREL ROLL!!
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- Jrbrownie00
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 14:06baldy110 wrote:Jrbrownie00 wrote: do the above instructions relay to a kz750 ltd?
No, completly different engine.
Didn't think so but It didn't hurt to ask haha.
82' kz750 ltd.
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- 2ndgenKZ
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Re: starter clutch repair?
23 Apr 2013 15:14
i had to replace the secondary shaft on my 750. may not look like it needs it but feel like the previous owner let the starter clutch go for so long that the teeth were worn down. couldnt tell by the naked eye but fixed the problem. just saying
1983 Kawasaki KZ750 LTD MAC
1983 Kawasaki KZ750 LTD BONES
1981 KZ750E KERKER
1985 Dodge Conquest FLATTY
1995 Jeep Cherokee RUSTY
1983 Kawasaki KZ750 LTD BONES
1981 KZ750E KERKER
1985 Dodge Conquest FLATTY
1995 Jeep Cherokee RUSTY
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