Kz750-4 engine overhaul... need some tips!

I just picked up a 1981 kz750-4 on the craiglist for $200. My plan was to refurb the motor and maybe do some light mods and stick it in my kz650 frame.

Engine has 29000 miles (per odometer) and turns over easily at the crank with spark plugs installed and hasnt run in 10 years. I plan to replace the upper gaskets, clean the pistons, replace rings, replace valve springs/ valve job. I want to do this before i try to start the motor just for good measure. This is more of a project and learning experience for me as opposed to a i just need it running scenario. And yes i do have a factory service manual.

My question(s) are:
1) is there anything in the top-end I have missed that the gurus would recommend doing?

2) I really don't want to split the cases unless I know there is a problem (unknowable until I run the engine), so is there anything I should do besides changing the oil on the bottom end for good measure?

any input is appreciated and thanks!

I wouldn't do any of that. I'd change the oil, check the valve clearances and compression and if they are within spec I'd run it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Lorcan wrote: I wouldn't do any of that. I'd change the oil, check the valve clearances and compression and if they are within spec I'd run it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

+1 The only thing I might do is pull the oil pan off and check the oil pump screen just in case. See kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/583034-i-thin...n-my-oil-pump#583034

If you really feel compelled to pull the valve cover you might want to splash some oil on the cam lobs before closing it up, but I really wouldn't pull the head and fiddle with the rings, etc. unless something seems wrong after running it for a few miles. Ed

Far enough. So you guys don't think there is anything more than normal maintenance (oil/filter, valve clearance, etc) I should do before trying to start it?

I guess the only other thing would be put in fresh spark plugs and while they are out spritz a little oil on the cylinder walls if you can figure out a way to do it. Those cylinder wall are probably pretty dry after 10 years. Ed

assume thanks ed.

-nick

Lorcan wrote: I wouldn't do any of that. I'd change the oil, check the valve clearances and compression and if they are within spec I'd run it.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

As usual, Lorcan is correct :laugh:

If you don't do that, then you may spend a bunch of time and money on the top end, only to find a major problem in the bottom end.