NOS Head and New Springs, What Shims?

In the process of rebuilding my head for the 3rd time in 4 months (I'm not very smart) and this time, to MAKE SURE everything goes well I spent way too much money and bought a NOS head, and new springs and valves (once again, not very smart and now with less money).

Something that has confused me is what size shims I should install. I'm pretty sure I need valve shims (correct?), but since the engine is essentially new, can't I install some baseline/stock shims? Or do I need to just install everything without shims and measure the gap like a normal test, then go out and buy the necessary thicknesses?

The camshafts are NOT new in any way, they are my original 1982 shafts.

Thanks for your input

This would be so much easier if I had a clue what model of KZ you have.
Maybe you should either add it to your sig, or put it in every post.

If you have a 900/1000, then it has shims on top of the bucket, and you don't want to assemble it without shims cause you'll likely damage the cams.

Just put in the smallest shims you have, then assemble it and measure the clearances to determine what new shims you'll need. DO NOT DO THIS WITH THE HEAD FLAT ON THE BENCH, bent valves will result.



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Including information about bike year and model is helpful to viewers and usually elicits better responses.
It's easy to put the information in your signature where it shows in all posted messages, past and future.
And may be changed whenever and as often as desired.
If wanting a signature showing information about the bike in posted messages, it's easy to do. Here's how:





Good Fortune!

Patton wrote: Including information about bike year and model is helpful to viewers and usually elicits better responses.

And it keeps me from posting grumpy responses.

The last N.O.S. head I dealt with was a KZ900. Out of the box it needed the valve job finished. The 45 cut was huge. So look yours over before you assemble it, even if it's not a 900.

If the valve job is ready to go [out of the box], start with 250 shims across the board for first check. That should put you in the ballpark with measurable clearances.

My mistake, I [strike]thought [/strike]assumed that my "stats" were displayed under my username like all the other forums I belong to. Will add to my signature. In the meantime:

1982 KZ650

I got it all assembled last night and measured all the gaps - without any shims - at 65mm across the board. Sooooooo I guess a 250 shim?

Couldn't you use the shims from the old head to check clearances?

KZCafeRacer wrote: My mistake, I [strike]thought [/strike]assumed that my "stats" were displayed under my username like all the other forums I belong to. Will add to my signature. In the meantime:

1982 KZ650

I got it all assembled last night and measured all the gaps - without any shims - at 65mm across the board. Sooooooo I guess a 250 shim?

Measuring without shims won't tell you much since the shims sit in a recess. I like Geobass's idea of using your old shims to get a measurement, then adjust from there. Ed

When the old Kaws cam in for first service, most everything had about a 260 shim from the factory.

Larry have you ever had any of the 900s come in that have no 45 on the exhaust seat? Quite a few must have gotten out of the factory like that.

Threw in the old shims (which were already close to stock) and measured/adjusted. Seems all good. Thanks for helping me with that question.

APE Jay wrote: Larry have you ever had any of the 900s come in that have no 45 on the exhaust seat? Quite a few must have gotten out of the factory like that.

Can't recall the exhaust Jay. I remember the 45 on the intakes was about 5 times the width of the stock valve face. Kaw H
ot Line tech (Randy Davis) told me the factory did valve job off the guide bore...then put guides in later...

Made no sense to me....