problems with my clutch.

I'm having a really difficult time trying to have properly functioning clutch.
For some reason, I have really grabby plates that won't slip at all. I can't even move the bike with the clutch pulled in. The worst part is, this is happening on a set of new frictions with less than an hour of use.

I replaced the clutch a while back for the same problem that I am again having now.
so far, the steels looks fine, I probably should of replaced the springs, but didn't. I did replace the friction plates and cable, cleaned the pusher mechanism. Didn't loose the tiny little ball bearing. Even torqued everything back to spec.
It road and functioned fine for a while.
Then it started to grab again.
Maybe I have the slightest warped plate?
I just took them out and cleaned them, and replaced the oil with t6.
Maybe my springs aren't strong enough to fully grip my plates, so they're just slipping the whole time and burning the surface. I don't know. Any ideas?

I'd suspect warped steel plates. What replacement clutch did you go with? I've had barnetts get grabby and not release but it took a little time, not much, I was throwing some hard work at them.
If in fact it is warped steels, you shouldn't have to replace the fibers and used steels off e-bay can be had fairly cheap. Take the best of the bunch and make a full set.

Les

Springs are the first thing I would have replaced. These clutches are tough. Measure their height and compare in the FSM. The plates were probably within spec - did you measure them? Springs cost < $20. Plates are expensive.

Check clutch basket for scaring from the fibers, what happens sometimes is that little grooves get worn in it and they won't let the clutch fully engage or disengage and also to chatter.

Les

Thanks for the replies guys.
the landings of my basket are pretty smooth. No pitting or grooving.
I saw pictures of what warped plates look like. They'll have burnt markings on the surface where the plates wobble out of true. I didn't see any burn marks or anything. still, doesn't mean that they aren't though..

also, is a light Cross thatched pattern normal on the surface of the steels? there's a smooth side and then a semi-smooth side with light cross thatching. I figured it's designed like that for grip.
Smooth side face inward or out?
I NEED TO INVEST IN A MANUEL.