Valve Clearance & Cam End Plug Replacement

Ok, got my new Can End Plugs from z1. Removed the valve cover last night and started by measurements. Here is what I ended up with. I am going to give the measurement and then the Shim number if it had one.

Intake
1. .000 - .001 smallest feeler I have is .00015 and it wouldn't fit, so it is between .000 - .001. Shim removed says 240
2. .000 - .001 .00015 wouldn't fit. Shim remmoved says 250
3. .000 - .001 .00015 wouldn't fit. Shim had no writing or markings
4. .000 - .001 .00015 wouldn't fit. Shim remmoved says 240

Exhaust
1. .000 - .001 .00015 wouldn't fit. Shim had no #s or markings
2. .006. Shim had no #s or markings
3. .004. Shim remmoved says 265
4. .004. Shim remmoved and can't hardly read it but might be a 522 but that doesn't make any sense to me, so I am pretty sure that is not correct.

Stopped by local Kaw dealer and spoke with mechanic who let me borrow his Kaw Tool to remove the Shims. Taking the pulled shims on Monday with my chart back to see him and get replacement shims.

I ran into another issue while pulling the plug wires from the coils. My coil on the left side for the bottom connection, the plug wire melted inside and broke when taking it off. I am affraid that I may have to replace the entire coil, Any thoughts? Can you replace just one coil or should I replace both?

Caliper to measure shim thickness works just fine...
Some say micrometer (pin tip) but hell, cam lobes are wide so caliper is more than sufficient...

As for coils, you can buy just one but if they are that old...
Get two new coils and plug wire set (non resistive) and be done with it...

There's also plug wire splicing options but... not for me anyways...
Before going this route, measure the primary and secondary coil resistances and see if they fall in spec.
Keep in mind, these measurements won't inform you of issues while running current through them or issues due to heat....

Isn't electrical fun.... :laugh:

I have a Caliper for reloading, not sure it I can figure out how to convert those measurments over to mm. So I might just have to go buy one, but I am sure the mechanic at the local shop will have something I could use.

How do you measure the primary and secondary coil resistances? And you have any idea as to what the specs are for them?

thanks for the information.

Service manual would inform you of the procedure and resistance range for your exact year & model of your bike.

Harbor Freight tools, Home Depot, Lowes etc... all carry digital calipers that measure in both metric and standard.

Here's an example of the KZ900/1000 1976 - 1980... electrical testing.

Here's a chart showing both inch and metric shim sizes:







Ohm test -- primary windings:


Ohms test -- secondary (high tension) loop


If measured through the caps, from one cap clip to the other cap clip, the ohms will increase to account for resistance within each cap.

Some caps -- such as "stock" caps -- have a built-in resistor.
Other caps have zero resistance, such as the caps built into Dyna plug wires.
While other aftermarket caps are available with various resistance values.

The Factory Service Manual will specify the range of resistance (ohm reading) for the ignition coil's primary winding, and will also specify the range of resistance (ohm reading) for the ignition coil's secondary windings. And also specify the resistance built into each stock cap.

Good Fortune!

To convert inch measurements to mm; just be lazy like me and plug the inch measurement into this link:

www.google.com/#hl=en&sugexp=les%3B&gs_r...7e4&biw=1366&bih=625

Ok I used my reloading caliper to measure the shims that had no markings visible.

Intake:
Valve #
1. shim was marked 240
2. shim was marked 250
3. shim was measured 245
4. shim was marked 240

Exhaust:
Valve #
1. shim was measured 255
2. shim was measured 245
3. shim was marked 265
4. shim was measured 255

Using the chart provided in a earlier post, see if I am correct on what shims I need to get the proper clearance.
Figured another thing out, that I was recording the measurement in inches before and mm, so some shims I did not need to remove.
Intake:
Valve # Measurement " Measurement mm Original Shim Replacement Shim
1. .000 - .001 .000 - .038 240 230
2. .000 - .001 .000 - .038 250 240
3. .000 - .001 .000 - .038 245 235
4. .000 - .001 .000 - .038 240 230

Exhaust:
Valve # Measurement " Measurement mm Orignial Shim Replacement Shim
1. .000 - .001 .000 - .038 255 245
2. .006 .152 245 250
3. .004 .102 265
4. .004 .102 255

So with this information, I should only need to get three shims, 2 - 230s and 1 - 235. Correct?

The measurements that are .000 - .001, the smallest feller gauge I had is a .0015, so I was assume the measurement is somewhere between .000 - .001. I am needing to gain clearance on each valve

On those valves where the clearance measurement was .000 - .001" - are you positive there is any clearance at all? If there is zero gap it is quite possible that the cam is actually depressing the valve somewhat. If that is the case, you may find the replacement shim you listed is still too thick. Ed

When the smallest feeler gauge won't fit, but it's possible to rotate the shim (which indicates existence of at least some minimal clearance), the next size thinner shim is usually sufficient.

When the smallest feeler gauge won't fit, and the shim won't rotate because it's being firmly held in position by pressure against the cam (which indicates less than zero clearance), the replacement shim will likely need to be two sizes thinner.

Good Fortune!