Quick question about valve clearance inspection

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07 Feb 2013 02:40 #571220 by Spenzher
Howdy, I'm new here, I just got a nice rusty '83 kz750 that I'm fixing up and I'm starting to do a valve clearance inspection on it. However, the service manual is confusing me to no end so far.

The service manual says:

  • Using a 17 mm wrench on the crankshaft rotation nut, turn the crankshaft until a TDC mark on the timing advancer is aligned with the line mark on the crankcase. Measure the valve clearance of the valves of which mac love is pointing away from the valve lifter.
TDC of the #1 and #4 pistons -->
Inlet #1 and #3 valve clearances
or
Inlet #2 and #4 vlave clearances

TDC of the #2 and #3 piston -->
Exhaust #1 and #3 valve clearances
or
Exhaust #2 and #4 valve clearances


I am thoroughly confused on what they mean. Are they saying that the valves pair up? Which valves would I measure at each TDC? Is the "or" supposed to mean some kind of difference?

I figure this would be a simple answer for the more experienced :)
Attached is a picture of the actual manual text

Attachment WP_20130206_004.jpg not found


'83 KZ750N Shaft
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  • wireman
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07 Feb 2013 03:00 #571227 by wireman
Bring it up to tdc then look for the lobes that have their noses pointed directly away from top of bucket like it says in the book.
Write down the clearances for those cylinders,then rotate motor 180 degrees and repeat procedure and write down the numbers.
Then if you do need to change any clearances you should only need to pull the cams one time,just add or subtract the clearance you need from the existing shim so you know what you need to get. B)

posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.

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07 Feb 2013 11:17 - 08 Feb 2013 11:59 #571269 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic Quick question about valve clearance inspection
It might be easier to do one valve at a time & in sequence.... ie, 1-2-3-4 intake valves, then 1-2-3-4 exhaust valves. The manual probably has a photo like the one below, but most folks will do the check w the oblong end of the lobe pointing directly opposite from the bucket.
Last edit: 08 Feb 2013 11:59 by martin_csr.

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08 Feb 2013 05:01 #571456 by Spenzher
Thanks for the answers guys. Also, in a general way of understanding, am I basically getting the measurement when the nub of the camshaft for each valve is smallest (meaning its "pointing" away from the bucket)? I promise I'm going to keep the novice questions to a minimum while I'm in the forum :p

'83 KZ750N Shaft

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08 Feb 2013 12:07 #571486 by martin_csr
Replied by martin_csr on topic Quick question about valve clearance inspection
Yes, most will take the measurement w the oblong end pointing away from the bucket/tappet.
The manuals for many Kawasakis will show the measurement being taken as in the scan I posted above, so somewhere on the round end to a certain degree would be acceptable. The manual shows it that way because that's how the cam lobes line up when using the timing marks. I did it both ways & the measurements were the same.

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  • ThatGPzGuy
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08 Feb 2013 20:50 #571554 by ThatGPzGuy
Replied by ThatGPzGuy on topic Quick question about valve clearance inspection
It is a little confusing at first. Once you do it a few times it starts to make a little sense.
When you turn the crank and line up the TDC indicator for 1&4 and 2&3 you'll see the cam lobes will be pointed away from the bucket at the point where it is the easiest to get a gauge in there.
You'll see what I mean once you get going. Piece of cake.
Good luck,
Jim

Jim
North GA
2016 Yamaha FJR1300ES
1982 GPz750 R1
1974 Kawasaki H1
1976 Kawasaki KZ400
1979 Yamaha XS650 cafe'
2001 KZ1000P
2001 Yamaha YZ426
1981 Honda XR200 stroked in an '89 CR125 chassis
1965 Mustang
1967 Triumph GT6
1976 Bronco
"If you didn't build it, it's not really yours"

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10 Feb 2013 18:53 #571777 by Spenzher
Okay, I'm feeling dumb. I was still wondering how I do a valve clearance on #1 and #4 if I I could only see that #1 was facing outwards, and #4 was facing inwards. That led me to just turn the crankshaft and watch the valves move, and then I stupidly realized that it takes two rotations to make every valve work. Do'h. :pinch:

'83 KZ750N Shaft

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