83 KZ750 won't roll in neutral

I got an 83 KZ750 the other day and I am having a problem with it. While it is off I put it into Neutral to move it and it feels as if it is still in first gear or that the brake is halfway engaged. I can feel it go into neutral so I can't figure out what is wrong.
If anyone has any information that would be great.

ShayH wrote: I got an 83 KZ750 the other day and I am having a problem with it. While it is off I put it into Neutral to move it and it feels as if it is still in first gear or that the brake is halfway engaged. I can feel it go into neutral so I can't figure out what is wrong.
If anyone has any information that would be great.

see is wheels roll freely (ceterstand or jack) if not crack bleeder then try it if rolls [pull brake again (after tightening bleeder)

many causes for brakes hanging up lines woreout collapsing, pads too thin causing piston to cock, vent in mastercylinder plugged, corroded pistons the list can go on forever but start there
similar problem with my goldwing ended up new set of pads fixed it even though i replaced a collapsed line rebuilt callipers flushed brake system and more starti doing it about every other tideuntil the new pads

If the brake caliper rods are gunked up, the calipers can't float freely and they drag. I had to fix that and it rolls a lot easier now.

That sometimes happens because the brake pedal pivot never got lubed and the brake pedal sticks and doesn't release. See if pulling up on the brake pedal fixes it.

mess with the shifter pedal until the green neutral light comes on, if the shifter sticks then rock it while working the shift lever

possible rusty/gunked up chain, if so giveit a brush out with petrol, then oil up.

ShayH wrote: I got an 83 KZ750 the other day and I am having a problem with it. While it is off I put it into Neutral to move it and it feels as if it is still in first gear or that the brake is halfway engaged. I can feel it go into neutral so I can't figure out what is wrong.
If anyone has any information that would be great.

Bought a lot of vintage bikes been sitting a while, and I learned to always bring a can of WD-40 or similar spray lube with me to hurry up get the bike up in the truck and leave before the seller re-thinks his decision to drop 40% off his selling price for me even though his phone's ringing off the hook for the bike. Get that bike outta there asap. Use the WD40 on the disc rotors. On the rusty chain if that's sticking the back wheel. For vintage bikes with a drum brake in the back, loosen the nut at the end of the brake rod that runs to the rear hub from the brake pedal -- loosen that nut to relax the rear brake, get that bike ON THE TRUCK and GO.


Then back at the shop, remove the disk brake calipers, and clean/rebuild them -- rebleed the disk brake and NO MORE PROBLEMS. For whatever reason(s), disk brakes sitting a long time end up sticking and the pucks in the calipers don't retract back away from the rotors, and the wheels drag. Get that bike on the truck now and leave. Bring your WD40 to your purchases, you got to the seller first, get the wheels loose, pay the seller after talking him down, and GO. The seller's 'nice guy' demeanor might change into a 'hey wait a minute' at any moment.

And you'll come back and post the results, right?

Sorry I haven't made a response yet, thank you all for your suggestions!
Unfortunately I have not had time to look at it. I am on two weeks of leave from the navy and getting ready to move to San Diego while catching up with family and friends I haven't seen since February.
My bike is currently on a semi on its way to Cali and I won't be seeing it again until the beginning of January.
The mover who put my bike on the truck said it seemed normal, but I don't think it should be THAT hard to roll, plus I know at one point after I rode it for a few minutes it did roll easier.
Anyway thanks again for the suggestions and I will let you know as soon as I can work in it!

When brake fluid gets old and moisture is present, the fluid crystallizes underneath the caliper seals. This causes the caliper seal to press tightly against the brake piston. Froze brakes can keep it from rolling at all.
Get a rubber mallet or something more friendly than a hammer and tap the outside of the caliper where you visualize the piston sliding in and out. Tap a few times on all calipers, now try to roll it. If it rolls fine, its caliper seals.If the case, you must remove calipers and disassemble and remove caliper seals, scrape all crap out from behind the seals.

If seals cant be cleaned without damage or if you have pitted holes in the brake piston, you'll need some new parts to finish it.
P.S. when working with DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid, water alone will neutralize the brake fluid instantly for clean up.Dont use varsol or anything else to clean, use water.

is it ok to use brake cleaner to clean the chain?

donthaveakawman wrote: is it ok to use brake cleaner to clean the chain?

Probably okay.
I prefer WD40.
After whatever chain cleaning method, would follow by complete drenching with Dupont teflon chain spray, which is relatively inexpensive, and available at Lowes, etc.

Good Fortune!