Motorcycle Oils

donthaveakawman wrote: What about Torco oil, must be good I paid 10 USA dollars for a liter.

If you got the motorcycle oil, then it is probably good, as it has the JASO MA rating. One motorcycle oil is probably as good as the next & they are typically high priced.

twas the t-4.

The next thing one must wonder to oneself whence changing a motorcycle oil is.... does a motorcycle wet clutch, which just so happens to reside in the oil have asbestos in it due to it's age? :woohoo:

Does anyone have experience with Alisyn ProDrive 21? Check out this link (the entire video is worth a watch) Brock has a very good reputation with modern sport bikes. Alisyn also makes heavier weight synthetics.

More ProDrive 21 specs here www.aerospacelubricants.com/files/sheets...20type%201%20tds.pdf

I wouldn't use it in my bike. I cannot find any reference on the internet to it being JASO-MA compliant, and I can find nothing that shows was is in it. I suspect it has moly in it and that is not good for clutches. Also, I am of the impression that the guy in the video is being paid to sell the stuff, and I believe he will say anything to do so. Here's why I say that: In the video at time 4:36 he starts trying to sell Petron oil additive. At 4:44 he claims it will increase your clutch life. At 5:16 he states it has solids in it so you must shake it up to use it. I may be wrong, but I do not believe any lube with solids (probably moly) of such a size that you must shake it up to use it would be good for a wet clutch. I suspect those solids would end up coating the clutch friction plates and cause problems rather than improve the performance of the clutch. Again, I might be wrong on this, but until I see the JASO-MA rating, or at least a sheet that shows the contents of the oil, I wouldn't use it in my bike. There are plenty of different oils available at different price ranges that meet the JASO-MA standard, some dino type and some fully synthetic, so I see no benefit to gambling with an oil that might create a problem. Ed

If it has solids in it, they could be moly, graphite or PTFE (Teflon) powder none of which will do your clutch any good.

I have never seen any convincing data showing that such floating "friction reducer" powder is of any benefit to any engine application, since the powder has no way to know where to "bond" itself to or any way to bond. It just floats free in the oil which means any kind of pressure will disperse it. So, any bearing surfaces will likely not have any of the "friction reducer" powder but your oil filter will be loaded with it as well as many surfaces in the engine where the oil sits.

The moly additive was thrown in when they had to take out the ZDDP wear reducing agent, which actually does bond a metallic layer to the metal which acts as a sacrificial wear layer which protects against wear. I am yet to be convinced moly floating in oil does anything good. Moly grease works because the grease holds it where you put it, in oil it just floats around.

I use Amsoil 10w-40 exclusively - I average 12,000 miles per year on my KZ900 and have had 0 issues. I am a firm believer that you get what you pay for with motor oil, Amsoil isn't the cheapest, but it's the best.

My problem with the Amsoil is the salesman. Every person I know that sells it insists you a fool for not running it. Sale done here!
Every thing I've heard and read is good about it but pressure wont sell it to me. :blush:

Les

les holt wrote: My problem with the Amsoil is the salesman. Every person I know that sells it insists you a fool for not running it. Sale done here!
Every thing I've heard and read is good about it but pressure wont sell it to me. :blush:

Les

Definitely,sales people like that send to send me across the street to nearest competitor!
And besides if I want somebody to call me an idiot I have the wife on the payroll just for that purpose! :woohoo: