Motorcycle Oils

Brad Penn motor oil -- not cheap

This weird green oil is known for its ability to keep itself draped over an engine’s internal rotating assembly parts during the most crucial test for any oil: startup. Worst thing you can do for an engine, starting it up. There’s not enough oil flinging around between metal parts in the engine and there’s no pressure built up yet. So, there are a few moments on startup when oil really needs to be where it currently is not. This is where Brad Penn shines.

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Good Fortune!

I just bought a 10$ liter of wet clutch protection oil. the quart at the auto parts store is usually 5.99 but the liter is slightly larger.

Surfdude_007 wrote: ...Has anyone heard of Blendzall or Silkolene...

Never heard of Blendzall, but I've been running Silkolene Comp4 in both my bikes for the past 5 years or so, perfectly happy with it.

Before that I ran Motul 5100, pleased with that too but my local bike shop stopped carrying it.

Both oils are Jaso MA rated btw.

valvoline works fine with some motorcycle lucas additive.

I have yet to read a bad post on Rotella (dino or syn).

IMHO, just use a good quality oil and change it often. That will keep your engine a lot cleaner. FWIW, the base oil (dino or syn) almost never fails but the additives get broken down or used up hence my habit of changing often. MC's are inherently brutal on oil since their temps run pretty high compared to cars, the teeth in the gearbox also acts like a blender chopping on the additives.

I have always used car oils in mine (Castrol/ Valvoline etc), but you do have to make sure the top of the can does NOT say "energy conserving" because that will have the friction modifiers like moly which can screw up your clutch. If the oil used is service grade SL, SM or SN, it will not have enough ZDDP. You can buy it aftermarket and add it. I use ZDDPlus. STP oil treatment also has a good dose of ZDDP in it, but that will raise your oil viscosity about 4 points.

I use Rotella T also. Its some good stuff.

I run the Rottella in mine but we have this at work.

Boss is checking if we can get it in a 10w40.

I would NEVER run a single grade 30W oil. At cold start up, the viscosity is going to be way off what is needed to get optimum film on the bearing face. The factory manual on mine says 10-40 or 20-50 only.

if you read the small print, that is for lawnmowers.

donthaveakawman wrote: if you read the small print, that is for lawnmowers.

good eye, I didn't even see that. :laugh:

donthaveakawman wrote: if you read the small print, that is for lawnmowers.

I wouldn't run the 30 wt in my bike thats why
I'm seeing if we can get it 10w40.
We use the 30wt in the mowers at work but the oil is JASO MA spec.

What about Torco oil, must be good I paid 10 USA dollars for a liter.