Accel Super Coil install KZ1000A - Will this work?

Installing Accel coils in my 77 KZ1000. Used the supplied bracket attached to the stock location. Had to do a little bracket mod but basically a bolt up. Had to rotate the coils in and tuck the towers / wire caps right under the main frame tube to allow the tank to install (they hit the tank if rotated out). All looked good to me... THEN I re-read the install instructions.

In part it says: Mount & rotate the coil body to a position that assures the towers with the wires installed do not contact the frame, fuel tank or other components. Contact will ultimately damage the coil and possibly cause spark leakage that could lead to serious damage...

My coils do NOT hit the frame but part of the plug wire cap is against the frame. My guts says this should be fine but???? Anyone else mount their coils this way? I've attached 3 pic's to better show my mounting. (hopefully they show up in the post)

Ive seen people run them like that. Also seen people turn the boots around to face front. Also would make sure your zip ties dont rub the tank.

They should clear the tank. but if you later have a high speed miss, check that the spark is not firing into the bottom of the tank. A member at another forum had this problem; it would run great with the tank off, but would run crappy with it on.

I'd make sure the primary wire connections are tight, and then get some of the clear RTV(room temperature vulcanizing) compound, and overcoat the terminals, this keeps moisture out and provides another form of vibration protection. It's removable with tools.

I cut a section of inner tube rubber and slid (forced may be a better desription) between the frame & caps. It also should act as a barrier between the tank and plug wires. Figured every little bit helps... I started it up and it seem to run fine. I do understand that at high speed will be the real test. I had no idea how friggin tight this was going to be. I'll test ride next, before I start installing my new Dyna S. I don’t want too many variables!

Also, good tip on the RTV. I'll coat the connections and probably put a blob on the clamp nuts too. Between the loc-tight and the RTV, maybe that'll keep vibrations from backing them off. Thanks!

Make sure to use the BLUE Loctite, not the RED type. The BLUE ones are removable by tools, & the RED ones only after applying heat(about 300 F).


Thread Locking Compounds
www.loctiteproducts.com/

Loctite #222MS PURPLE, low strength thread locker
For screws under ¼”.

Loctite #242 BLUE, Medium strength thread locker
For ¼” to ¾” bolts.

Loctite # 262 RED, High strength thread locker permanent
For up to ¾” bolts (can be loosened by 300 F heat).

Loctite #271 RED, High strength thread locker for sealing plugs, nuts and bolts (can be loosened by 300 F heat).

Loctite # 272 RED, High strength, high temperature(450 F) thread locker.



www.permatex.com/

Permatex # 24310 Low strength thread locker, PURPLE, fasteners under ¼” diameter.

Permatex # 22210 Medium/high strength thread locker, BLUE, ¼” to ¾” fasteners, surface insensitive (can be used on oily fasteners).

Permatex # 24210 Medium strength thread locker, BLUE, ¼” to ¾” fasteners.

Permatex # 27710 High strength thread locker, RED, 3/8” to 1 inch fasteners, may require heat for removal.