Symptom of Advanced or Retarded Ignition

Might be running on just two cylinders.
If not already done, would spray water mist onto header pipes a few seconds after starting a cold engine, to determine whether the water sizzles and immediately vaporizes off all four pipes.

Good Fortune!

When throttle hand grip is turned wide open, are all the carb throttle slides in full up position?

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wireman wrote: Put front wheel against a concrete wall and slip the clutch a little to load the motor and see how it acts

:woohoo:

Garn wrote: Valve clearances 0.002 to 0.006" correct.
new coils , DynaS, Carbs balanced and jets OK .. (Probably running a little rich). free wheeling well, no brake binding.
It was a horrible feeling, engine running well, just not accelerating!
I know the proof is in the checking with a timing light, however, I just wanted to find out a notable symptom as I'm riding.
RegardZ.

That's exactly how they act when the cam timing is off by 1 tooth.

Thanks Larry, I will check this valve timing. I wonder if I neglected to do this properly.

Peter58, I haven't checked that petrol cap... I'll do that too!
Patton, running on four, balanced with "Carbtune".
650Ed, Carbs clean and floats are correct level, possibly running slightly rich.

I will give some feed back soon. I'm working on my little Zeal at the moment..... Thanks again!

RegardZ ~ Garn.

Garn wrote: Thanks for your reply, I have listed my bikes 4 x Jaffa's. Sorry, perhaps you are unfamiliar with the term "Jaffa". A Jaffa is the first of the Kawasaki Z1's Built 72-73, 903cc. Orange and Root beer which is also the colour of confectionary in UK & Australia that has an orange candy outer shell and a chocolate centre. Sorry about that! I'll change it!

I have gleed one significant symptom from your answer ... " The bike won't pull well"... when too far advanced.
This is what I am after. Any other quick symptom indicators?

Re-phraseing the question... I am going for a test ride on a 73 Z1 what should I notice as I ride the bike that would tell be whether it is too far advanced or too far retarded.

RegardZ.

You can get a timing light at Harbor Freight for about $12.

You not only need to check timing at idle, but rev it up slowly and see if the advance follows the curve in the manual. I suspect you have a problem with your advancer mechanism based on symptoms.

BH, As already stated, I know the proof is in the checking with a timing light, however, I just wanted to find out a notable symptom as I'm riding. If indeed there is one!
RegardZ.

LarryC wrote:

Garn wrote: Valve clearances 0.002 to 0.006" correct.
new coils , DynaS, Carbs balanced and jets OK .. (Probably running a little rich). free wheeling well, no brake binding.
It was a horrible feeling, engine running well, just not accelerating!
I know the proof is in the checking with a timing light, however, I just wanted to find out a notable symptom as I'm riding.
RegardZ.

That's exactly how they act when the cam timing is off by 1 tooth.

.
Larry, checked valve timing ... spot-on!, checked if true TDC... Spot-on!
Guess I will do ignition timing again! Perhaps have a look at Pilot & main jets (28mm Z1R carbs).
Bountyhunter, advance & retard mech seemed a little light in the springs, so swapped it over for a firmer one.
RegardZ

points dwell meter might also help, if you have them.

Garn wrote: Thanks gents.
I ride a Z1 around the suburbs no trouble. The other day I went on the expessway allowable speed 110 kph.
I saw a semi-trailor approaching from behind. I had just increased to 120kph and the semi was still coming. I move over to let him go. The point was, I was pushing to keep up with him, my max speed was 110 - 120 kph and I definitely had nothing left. It was a slight incline and a great strip of road.

There was no pinging (haven't heard that for ages) It just would go faster!
Verdict seems to be too far retarded, although I can't yet rule out too far advanced.

I realise you will always lose power whether too advanced or too retarded.
It will rev when no load.

Wireman, what should i expect when I lean the front wheel against a conc wall and let the clutch slowly out?

advance the timing a little bit then see if it starts again.

Outside of what others replied to.... A couple things came to mind reading through your post, possibly I missed it (4am here thus no sleepy)....

Electrical Considerations:
Points or electronic ignition in this Z1...?
Faulty (Shit) ignition condensors will make it run like crap thus effecting your ignition pulses to the coils so may be on there way out...

If EI... Static and dynamic testing/adjustments as required.

Condition of spark plugs...?
Most of usally associate this as a carb issue and may still be an added issue in your bike but no, way more to it than that....

Hot/bright white in color, strap <> 50/50, particles on ceramic insulators, burned/knarled tip etc.... = pre-ignition.
Dark black carbon build up = retarded could also be related my next question.

Coil voltage ~>= 13.5Vdc at 3500 rpm...?
Possibly not getting enough juice under loaded conditions.

For others... NO on the Coil Mod... :pinch:

Spark plug wires & caps in good condition, non resistive wire set, pliable sparky wires etc...?

Coils in specifications...?

Just some other ideas to confirm....

If not already done, would assure ignition timing is checked at idle rpm by alignment of the F mark with the case mark.

Not the F letter.
Not the T letter.
Not the T mark.
Not the parallel advance marks.

Good Fortune!