After market mufflers for my damaged 77kz1000

Hey all,

It's been awhile since I've been on the forum. I've been riding both my 76 kz900 and 77 kz1000 a lot.

I was on the last day of a 3200 mile trip from Vancouver BC to northern California and back on my mint 77 kz1000 when I had an off road experience.

I'm OK, hurt my back but it's mostly better now. Short story is, I was going at a fairly spirited pace, when failed to make a corner on a narrow twisty road. Crashed in the ditch. No serious damage to the bike, but the whole left side requires work. I have a spare tank that I am going to use. The biggest obstacle is obtaining an excellent left side muffler. I'm having significant difficulty sourcing a really good used one.

I need to maintain the stock appearance in order to qualify for our "Collector Plate" status and insurance. We can discuss insurance rates another time. Suffice to say that it saves me about $1000 per year.

At "Z1 PARTS" I found some aftermarket mufflers to fit a 1980 KZ1000 Z1R D3. They are supposedly an exact replica for that bike. They are meant to clamp on to the header pipe after the crossover pipe and immediately in front of the muffler. They come with new brackets to fit the Z1R.

I believe the frame on the 78 Z1R is different than the 77. At the foot peg/muffler bracket mount, it looks more like a kz900 frame or LTD frame. Definitely different geometry in that area.

I would have to cut the 77 exhaust to fit the slip-on & clamp of the Z1R muffler

My questions for you guys are:
-Are the header pipes at that point the same diameter?
-Without any funky modifications, would those mufflers bolt up to the stock 77 kz1000 muffler brackets? If the header pipes were cut properly, that is.
-Because the frames and muffler brackets of the bikes are different, do they cancel each other out, and make the hard mounting points the same?
-Basically, will they fit on my 77 kz1000 without much fuss? The guys at "Z1 PARTS" haven't come across this problem as yet.

There are probably other things to consider. Please chew on it, and then I hope I can get some advice.

Thanks,
Ross

I suppose before I start cutting up the exhaust to fit aftermarket cans, I should enquire if any of you have a stock left hand muffler for sale to fit a 77 kz1000 A1?

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationWishing for you a full and speedy recovery!

Would also monitor ebay for a "mint" replacement of left side exhaust system.

This one has road rash.



Good Fortune!

If I want a stock muffler for my A1, then for sure I'll have to watch ebay.

The problem will be finding one that is not rotted out inside even if it looks OK outside. It's only the muffler that I need, the head pipes are perfect. What I may do, is install a Vance & Hines as a temporary measure until I locate a stock muffler.

I've heard that there Quality and fitment issues with the Vance & Hines. If I order one from Z1E, would there be any issues like that?

Cheers,
Ross

I'm pretty sure I'll install a Vance & Hines 4 into 1. The bike is 100% stock otherwise, including the stock air box, and 135 psi in all cylinders . I will not remove any packing from the muffler. Do I need to consider any changes to the main or pilot jet sizes? Bearing in mind that I am more than happy with the performance of the stock setup.

Ross

Hello from up the valley Galactica. Sorry to hear about your 'off' and glad you can still type.

As for your pipe and collector insurance ICBC allows you to use period correct replacement parts. I wouldn't worry about a different pipe as long as it's clean and shiny they won't mind. I just got accepted for collectors on an 81 Goldwing that was in rough shape. Cleaned it up and replaced some safety items and a month later my bike was accepted. Good luck.

Galactica wrote: ...What I may do, is install a Vance & Hines as a temporary measure until I locate a stock muffler.
I've heard that there Quality and fitment issues with the Vance & Hines. If I order one from Z1E, would there be any issues like that?....

A too tight fitment between canister and header on V-H sometimes results simply from the chrome plating being a little too thick.

No clamp is used. Nor is it needed for an easy perfect precise snug slip-on fit with no leakage whatever.

Imo, the thick chrome is a good thing. Don't ruin it with some ham-fisted stone-ax neanderthal sanding and grinding. :pinch:

Take the new V&H to the local muffler shop guy who will put an expander tool in the cannister and with one quick 5 second adjustment have it fitting perfectly and with no chrome damage whatever, and no visual difference at all, just a nice easy snug perfect fit. Slick as a whistle. He'll just smile and say, "I'd marry that!" :kiss: Installation will not require any lube or sealant of any kind, and no leaks whatever. This fitment cure is miraculous compared to the alternatives.

If necessary, a simple hangar strap may be fabbed to attach the cannister. I've always used a small rubber "motor mount" between the cannister and bike frame to eliminate vibration. The mount is a small rubber cylinder with 1/4 inch bolts coming out both sides, about one inch long with male threads.







Also used an entire can of ultra high-temp spray paint to thickly coat insides of brand new header pipes before installation, which so far have not blued and remain bright shiney chrome after numerous rides, some over several hundred miles (including several hours in engine-smoking bumper to bumper traffic in 90 degree weather at Daytona Bike Week).

Couldn't be happier with the new V&H system. And don't forget the V&H competition baffle for "off-road" use.

WARNING --
As known, achieving the perfect fitment interface desired between the cannister and header usually requires rotating the parts while they are together and also moving the cannister in and out of the header, which requires the snug yet adjustable perfect fit between cannister and header.

Don't make the mistake of heating the cannister and cooling the header in order to allow sufficient clearance to push them together. Because the parts immediately bind permanently together.

It's virtually impossible on the first joinder effort to attain the exact fitment desired between cannister and header to perfectly mount the cannister to the frame by having the cannister tab line up in exactly the correct position.
It will for evermore be as if the entire exhaust system, headers and muffler, all came built together as a single piece, with no fitment adjustment thereafter allowed.
If lucky enough to get it fitted perfectly on the first attempt , which will also be the last and only attempt, any future servicing which would ordinarily require that only the cannister be removed will now entail removing the entire exhaust system.


Good Fortune!

Patton,

Excellent tutorial! Thank you very much. Do you think there is any advantage to changing jets along with the header?

Cheers,m
Ross

Hey Cuff,

I know ICBC can be unpredictable. I am definitely going to install a header at some point (Patton's tutorial was excellent).

I have a spare tank that is prepped and ready for paint. Still have to prep body panels. I'm considering a colour change from red /gold stripes to the blue /gold stripes. She was born red, maybe she should stay red, but most guys prefer the blue. She'll be for sale in the spring if I get my 73 Z1 finished.

Cheers,
Ross

Galactica wrote: Patton,

Excellent tutorial! Thank you very much. Do you think there is any advantage to changing jets along with the header?

Cheers,m
Ross

Yes. You don't want to run this bike lean. Aside from turning the head pipes blue, you will have a spitting and sputtering bike that is no longer fun to ride.
The high temp paint trick inside the tubes will help the tubes resist bluing. But proper jetting goes a long way in keeping the chrome looking good.
I would keep the stock air box and install a K&N air filter. You will notice a power increase with the new exhaust, air filter and proper jetting.
Start with a 17.5 pilot and 115 mains. That should get you in the game. You may have to fine tune from there. I have run 120 mains in my 1000 with the air box and K&N.
Don't feel that you will compromise your fuel economy because you opened your engine up to breathe easier and have larger jets in your carbs now. Your engine will be more efficient and could actually get improved fuel economy.

The new exhaust is half the weight of the factory pipes, you will feel it in the bike while riding.
With the 4-1 there is going to be an increase in buzz in the bars. Bar end weights help this.

ICBC is unpredictable for sure. They just sent me a car plate instead of a motorcycle plate for my collector status. ;

If you are going for collector plates remeber you can paint it, just, it has to be in a colour offered by the factory. Your blue should be fine.