1980 kz1000 cam timing..searched, got manual, supp

  • ADKBurntrubber87
  • Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
More
09 Sep 2012 14:50 #547618 by ADKBurntrubber87
1980 kz1000 cam timing..searched, got manual, supp was created by ADKBurntrubber87
Like i said, i bought a clymer manual for my bike (1980 kz1000 chain drive, EGR/SMOG motor
..thinks its an A4 pretty sure.) started to do the valve adjustment..screwed up my chain settings while doing it..there is no section for 1979 and newer in the manual i bought for cam timing marks.

I bought the supplement, must have got the wrong one cause it has no info on it either..i searched..my god did i search but the cam chain and timing marks are some of the only things with these bikes that are different..its like every year had a different set up.

I assume my crank to case mark should be on the line next to the big
T where the exclamation is- (T ! 1 4)?

exhaust cam arrow pointed towards head..then there is the info i can't get a solid answer on..do i count pins or line up the arrow for the intake cam or what? how many pins?

thanks for the help

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • wireman
  • Offline
  • User
  • The most interesting prick in the world
More
09 Sep 2012 14:56 #547620 by wireman
the cams are timed with arrow facing forward centered on deck of front sprocket.
Starting with 1st pin above deck surface on front sprocket count 28 pins and that should land on timing mark of rear sprocket.

posting from deep under a non-descript barn in an undisclosed location southwest of Omaha.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • 4TheKZ1000
  • Visitor
09 Sep 2012 14:59 #547622 by 4TheKZ1000
line right of T.....1 and 4 are top dead center

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
09 Sep 2012 17:18 #547642 by Patton

ADKBurntrubber87 wrote: ...1980 kz1000...started to do the valve adjustment..screwed up my chain settings while doing it....


For future reference, there's no reason to loosen the cams or to disturb the chain settings on the cam sprockets when checking and adjusting valve clearances on large Kaw fours.

One advantage of shim over bucket is that the shims are accessible for removal and replacement without loosening either camshaft.

Good Fortune! :)

1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
09 Sep 2012 17:25 #547643 by 650ed
I suggest you buy a Kawasaki Service Manual if you plan to work on your bike. If you have a table that is wobbly you may want to put that Clymer manual under one of the legs to make it more stable; that would at least make the manual useful. ;)

1977 KZ650-C1 Original Owner - Stock (with additional invisible FIAMM horn)
The following user(s) said Thank You: wireman

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

More
09 Sep 2012 18:18 #547651 by RonKZ650
Cam timing is same on 1980 as previous years, no new fangled marks were used, all were the same. Be sure and be sure 20x you use the correct marks or you'll bend valves.

321,000 miles on KZ's that I can remember. Not going to see any more.
The following user(s) said Thank You: wireman

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • Motor Head
  • Offline
  • User
  • FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
More
09 Sep 2012 23:40 #547737 by Motor Head

1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

  • ADKBurntrubber87
  • Topic Author
  • Offline
  • User
More
10 Sep 2012 09:45 #547794 by ADKBurntrubber87
Replied by ADKBurntrubber87 on topic 1980 kz1000 cam timing..searched, got manual, supp
Thank you guys for the info..i was doing great last night i had everything lined up (i thought) lubed, went to put the tensioner in and whoops..i didnt have the lockbolt tight enough because the pushrod shot out and into my lower crank case.

I spent probably 2 hours trying to fish it out through the tensioner hole. i finally gave up and took the exhaust off, the cam cap and cams and then the cylinder head off. By the graces of god i fished it back out just barely. i let the head sit upside down with marvel mystery in the combustion chamber to see if any valves leaked and to clean the combustion chambers with scotchbrite.

spent another few hours putting everything back together..i'm glad i didn't put the headnuts back on because i'm pretty sure i'm off by a tooth looking at the pics from motorhead's link..i think i started counting on the wrong pin. now i'm going to loose sleep over whether or not i bent the valves playing around..oh well cams and caps have to come back off anyway.. i'll keep everyone updated thanks with the help so far, its much appreciated.

And Patton, I realize that now, was trying to get out of this without buying a shim changing tool (this was before i saw the motion pro one for $7) and it cost me in the long run.

Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.

Powered by Kunena Forum