Rebuilt, getting mixed reviews about the engine

oldzed wrote: Just to add something.

This motor is giving decent compression considering it is still "dry"

I wopuld be tempted to add a little oil to each cylinder and retest.
I think you would see an improvement in the readings.

A leakdown test is to see where air is escaping when compression is low.
Lots of engines I have tested over the years have failed leakdown tests until they have been run.
In the old days when we ground in valves we would finish by giving the valve a sharp tap to fully
seat it . If you did not do this they were harder to start till the valves go bangerd into the seat.

DO NOT TAP ANY MODERN 16v TYPE VALVES. THEY CAN BE DAMAGED DUE TO THE MATERIALS USED

Well tney dont seem to mind the busa brothers babgin em off the pistons at 16,000 rpms! :woohoo:

The laws of common sense seem to have been abandoned




A leak down and compression test will support each other...not be contrary to each other.

i always hand turn them over on the stand before i put them in justmaking sure i have compression. Not much is more annoying than having to pull it back out because i didnt check something.

We're simply saying you can not turn by hand to get an actual compression number. Turning by hand, you might feel compression resistance, but even a motor with 70 lbs will give you some resistance.
But rule of thumb is, dont use the bolt on the end of the crankshaft because its only an 8mm bolt and with much compression it can break that bolt off easily. Starter or kick starter only.
You can use the 19mm or 17mm (cant remember)on the end of the advancer to turn if your spark plugs are removed and you need to turn the motor

Run the blasted thing ! :ohmy: