clutch slipping

yesterday my clutch started slipping real bad. i was able to get it home and when it cooled down, it was fine again. i think my problem is the cable. when i bought the bike, it was and still is, wedged between the frame and the header and the plastic is completly melted of about 4" of it. when it's cooled down after a long ride, the lever is usually stiff, but i can squeeze it a few times before i start it and it loosens up. oh and the slipping was because the lever was returning to position when released. i'm also running regular motor oil in the engine. i'm almost positive it's just the cable but i've never been inside the tranny on one of these and wasn't sure if there was some internal spring that the oil might have affected or some other problem i might not know about. just wanted some opinions before i order parts. thanks

:whistle: :blink:
You are aware that the cable is damaged. Do you think this could possibly be the problem ??
Why do you not replace the cable and get it placed where it should be?. Then a proper adjustment.

How timely! I was having the exact same problem on my 550LTD. I decided to get brave and do the repairs myself. I called Jeff at Z1 and ordered a new cable. (Order placed on Thursday, cable in hand on Saturday. Thanks Jeff!) My cable was shot and when I pulled the cover off the clutch release mechanism was all crapped up. I threw all the parts in a parts cleaner and gave them a good cleaning. The push rod was so dry I could hardly get it out. I cleaned and lubed the bejeezuz out of everything as I re-assembled it. I have a FSM and followed that on dissasembly and adjustment. The results? My clutch is smooth as silk now. I'm prouder than a peacock I did it myself. (Local Kaw dealer wanted $150 to do the job. Cable was less than $20 from Z1 including shipping.) Just a note: I read every posting I could find on here before starting and want to thank all the members for posting such great info.

So in closing, do it! If I can, anyone can. I think you'll be very happy with the results. And one little hint, if you have a manual, check the back for supplements for your specific year/model. Clutch adjustment on an 81 KZ 550LTD is not the same as what's in the front of the manual under general maintenance.

:side:


Hey, I'm going riding....

Your cable is buggered. You can get a new one for 15-20 bucks. The new cable should be prelubed, but I still take a new cable, hold it verticly and spray wd-40 into the top until it dribbles out the bottom. When installing the new cable use the metal clips that came with your bike to secure it against a frame down tube (clip it at the silver central adjusting joint with the adjusting nut on it). If the clip(s) are missing, you can use plastic zip ties. Make sure that you can move your bars full left/right without the cable binding when you're done. You can take the engine cover off were the cable goes into the transmission area. It is easy to install, nothing fancy involved. You just need to put a new, small, cotter pin in there to secure the new cable. If you need installation info, just ask. I'll try to see this later and type in the installation/adjustment procedure, if you need it. Don't be intimidated, it's easy. Just takes a bit of fiddling/adjusting.

thanks, i figured it was just a cable. just wanted to make sure there wasn't something else i should check. i have a fsm so i should be fine. there is one factory clip on the cable but i think someone wasn't paying attention when they bolt the exhaust on and pinned it.

If it is in fact your cable, insist on a decent replacement. The original Kawasaki cables have a metal spring-like outer covering covering the plastic sheath of the cable that runs from the engine all the way to the cable adjuster midway up the cable. This has a purpose, it keeps the heat of the exaust pipes from melting the cable! or at least minimizes it. I'm not sure if Jeff sells this type of cable, if so get it from him. If not either watch ebay, or go to Kawasaki and spring for the right cable. Trying to save money running cheap quality parts is a bad investment.

yeah, my current cable has that (figured that's what made it last this long). i've been meaning to run headerwrap to keep the engine cooler but now i think it'll help this problem too.

The cable I got from Z1 is a Motion Pro and it has the spiral wrap (spring) outer cover. I would reccomend something a little heavier than WD 40 to lube.