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Timing light for kz750
- bobski911
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I just slightly adjusted the timing on my kz750f1(dyna-S). I have the F mark lined up perfectly but when I run up to 3800rpm its not between the two marks. What does this mean? Is there adjustments I can make?
Thanks for the help.
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- Motor Head
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- FIX UP YOUR BIKE RIGHT AND CHEAP
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1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- bobski911
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- Motor Head
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I gave mine a small tweak, and am still at the 10 initial at Idle, but shortened the total to about 40 or so. But my liquid cooled Concours I did just the opposite nearly. Se the timing up further +4 degrees all through, Idle up thru total. Now its 14 at Idle and 44 at Max advance.
1982 KZ1000LTD K2 Vance & Hines 4-1 ACCEL COILS Added Vetter fairing & Bags. FOX Racing rear Shocks, Braced Swing-arm, Fork Brace, Progressive Fork Springs RT Gold Emulators, APE Valve Springs, 1166 Big Bore kit, RS34's, GPZ cams.
1980 KZ550LTD C1 Stock SOLD Miss it
1979 MAZDA RX7 in the works, 13B...
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- bountyhunter
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still using the mechanical advancer assembly?bobski911 wrote: Hey everyone,
I just slightly adjusted the timing on my kz750f1(dyna-S). I have the F mark lined up perfectly but when I run up to 3800rpm its not between the two marks. What does this mean? Is there adjustments I can make?
Thanks for the help.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bobski911
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- bobski911
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Motor Head wrote: Best to use a degree wheel, make a mark at max advance of what your manual states is the top of the curve. Like 45 probably. Then see where it lands when revved. A little less can be better than more, but thats per motor seems like, and fuels etc play into it alot. If its running fine with the "F" mark lined up at Idle it is probably OK. But Total advance can cause some major engine damage so it is worth checking correctly.
Thanks Motor head,
I'm not too familiar with how this timing works. My manual says the top of the curve is 38.5-41.5. I'm not sure what that means. I just realized that I set the timing to F mark where I have my idle at, which is 12-1300rpm. The book say idle should be at about 1100. Do you think that because I set the F mark up at 12-1300rpm, this is why I go past the two line markers?
You have also mentioned gas can be a factor, I used premium with a little octane boost. You think?
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- turboguzzi
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thing is you'll also need a TDC tool to set it, take off alternator cover, rotor bolt, etc.
but if you are not lazy its definitely worth the effort.
just be careful not to bend valves with the the TDC tool!
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- bobski911
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I like the sounds of this, can you lead me to more info on the tools/parts, or procedure.
Thanks
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- bountyhunter
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That's what it screwed up on mine. The advance range narrows as they wear so you get either timing correct at idle or high RPM, can't get both right. It's because it does not give correct range of advance.bobski911 wrote: Yes, still using the mechanical advance.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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- bobski911
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bountyhunter wrote:
That's what it screwed up on mine. The advance range narrows as they wear so you get either timing correct at idle or high RPM, can't get both right. It's because it does not give correct range of advance.bobski911 wrote: Yes, still using the mechanical advance.
Thanks bountyhunter. What do you suggest I do?
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- bountyhunter
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I had to replace the springs on mine to get it to work.bobski911 wrote:
bountyhunter wrote:
That's what it screwed up on mine. The advance range narrows as they wear so you get either timing correct at idle or high RPM, can't get both right. It's because it does not give correct range of advance.bobski911 wrote: Yes, still using the mechanical advance.
Thanks bountyhunter. What do you suggest I do?
Check yours: if the "weights" have play in them, the thing is not going to work right.
1979 KZ-750 Twin
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