Possible timing chain issues?

Hey everyone, I'm new here and as I wait for my old man to come pick my sorry ass up from the side of the road since my 82 750 Spectre just died on me, I figured I'd try to get some diagnosis done.

Driving home from work today, just after some hard accelleration from passing a car, I heard a new clicking sound coming from the motor. I put my hand on the vavle cover and could feel the clicking sound. I let off the throttle and the sound went away, the more throttle I gave, the louder it got until the engine died and I coasted to the shoulder of the road. The bike won't turn over right now, there is still oil in the engine so I'm assuming the timing chain might have let go on me. Can anyone else either confirm or give another diagnosis.

I am mechanically inclined and can do anything to a car but have never worked on a bike. If it is the timing chain, is it a big undertaking to change?

Could be that your cam chain tensioner backed out and that the chain jumped the sprockets. If that's the case, chances are at least some of your valves are bent and that these valves prevent your engine from turning.

So as it turns out, after pulling the valve cover and the head, there are no issues with the timing chain or the tentioner. So with plain view of the pistons, which are in great shape, I put the bike in gear and moved the rear tire back and forth. There is no movement of the pistons whatsoever, but I can see the clutch assembly move back and forth with the tire.

My assumptions have moved to a possibility of the primary chain that broke. Does anyone know of a link or the proper procedure on how to repair or replace the chain, and not to mention the proper procedures on how to reassemble the engine with proper torque specs.

Thanks

If your primary chain broke you can probably get into the Guinness Book of World Records. It is time to buy the Kawasaki Service Manual.

You said the sound was from up on the valve cover/ cylinder head area. Did you check your valve clearances? The shims are under the cam follower/ tappet/ buckets, on top of the valve stem. So you need to pull the cams to remove the buckets, to change shim sizes. The other thing to check would be cam lobes and the bearings, also the 6mm bolt holes for the caps. Watch the torque on those, some manuals call it 12 foot pounds which will strip those nice aluminum threads. More like 100-110 inch pounds.
If you're worried about the primary chain, pull the sump off the motor, you will be able to inspect the chain from there. About an inch, 25mm of free-play is still OK. The limit is in the manual, might be 26mm. But like 650ed said UN-likely to break one.