KZ750 Starter Clutch/Rotor loose issue

ahh ha! I DID NOT use loctitie on the shaft only the bolt that compresses the rotor on the shaft!??

Thanks Patton!

Looks like I will need to try this tonight when I get off work! I did sand down the shaft and use acetone cleaner to get rid of any oil residue then cleaned the inside of the rotor that mates to the shaft and loctite the bolt ONLY. I am really scared to over tighten with the bolt with the impact, but, the rotor/flywheel slides off so easily after bolt is removed?? Would think a puller would need to be used to remove but after removeing the bolt it just slides off - inspecting the clutch rotor is simple but its simplicity may be most of the issue with these bikes.

Wondering if there is a retrofit keyway redesign to prevent this?

I suspect (but not certain) that the bike at hand would be similar to other Kawasaki models where the flywheel fits onto the crankshaft so tightly as to require (after removing the attaching bolt) a separate puller bolt (or puller tool) threaded into the flywheel to push against the end of the crankshaft in order to free the flywheel from the crankshaft.

Flywheel puller tools, such as:
www.z1enterprises.com/SearchResult.aspx?...ds=flywheel%20puller




Most of the issues with flywheel-crankshaft seem to involve getting the flywheel removed, as opposed to keeping it tight.

Good Fortune!

yeah...pretty weird?? My mechanic even said it should have had to be pulled? I just took it apart again....I can spin the bolt immediately by hand and took off the rotor by hand...no puller necessary!

He basically said to use red loctite on the shaft, rotor, and threaded bolt and torque it to setting. I cleaned with acetone and scrubbed the even the bolt threads before applying the loctite. CROSS YOUR FINGERS!

Now I guess I should also say I am going to let it all sit for 24 hours to cure the loctite. Last several times I went and jump right on and rode it......maybe didnt let it all dry and seal up???

12,900+ miles and all of a sudden to have this kind of problem is pretty crazy huh??? Not so much a puller but maybe a PRESS! LOL ????

I'm wondering where the additional space is coming from. Are these supposed to be "Matched Parts", assembled at the factory? Was the rotor/flywheel ever replaced?

Also, could the bolt be "Bottoming Out" before the flywheel/rotor gets tight? Tried a slightly shorter bolt?

no, My father owned since it was off the showroom floor? Everything is original...the crime may have come from sitting for over 7 years in the garage - I cannot answer why this is happening all of a sudden.

Last few months I have been riding it to work which is 30 miles one way!! Glad it happned in the driveway !!

I have been doing some diggin on the forum and it has happned before so I hope to learn how to solve it soon. I am missing some PRIME riding weather!

at this stage I am listening to any and all ideas!

Did you ever look at the fit, on the Tapper, on both the crank and the rotor. Use a Bluing compound available at any parts store if you don't have any. When the rotor is bolted to spec, then loosen and remove the bolt, remove the rotor and view the fit. Is the rotor and crank Bottoming together, where the end of the crank contacts the inside of the non tappered area of the rotor? Maybe the tapper is somehow worn or otherwise damaged?

Thats a brilliant idea!

I will check that next for sure.......one thing is for sure it sure started and ran incredible before all this started. Then everytime I tighten it before it loosens it is awesome as well.

razorblade, Hope the locktite locks the taper this time.

If not, something is keeping the fly wheel from seating.
1)something behind the starter sprocket? or between sprocket/shim/flywheel?
2)starter sprocket shim replaced with a thicker shim?

If necessary, try flywheel to crank fit with the starter sprocket and shim removed.
If it does not Lock-Up the flywheel or crank taper is damaged.
If it does then it is a matter of getting the right thickness behind the flywheel.
There is an oil feed hole in the case behind the sprocket that keeps the chain/sprocket/starter clutch lubed. Too much gap or too little gap are both bad.

Drop me a PM if you want. I'm over due for a ride that direction.
PS. if mechanic Jeff is Jeff with the Orange Dream Cycle, ya got a good one.

Jim

ALRIGHT! :laugh: :woohoo:

I redid everything over again with the exception of more Loctite....even put Loctite on the shaft and let it set for about 30 hours over 4th of July.

Went boating all day and resisted riding. ( very tough )

KNOCK ON WOOD........It is staying together so far after about 8 starts and 25 miles - went for a late ride last night ( still about 100 degrees out ) and it is running GREAT!

Now...if I can just get past the feeling of my bike is " glued" together I would trust it to once again ride to work.

Thanks Guys!!

Hoping the Red Loctite was used, which is the strongest version (instead of the blue, green or purple).

And perhaps in the future being able to benefit from this thread:

www.kzrider.com/forum/2-engine/399151-kz-porn

Good Fortune!