New coils and getting shocked!!

Hi guys, love this site and visit it all the time, so thanks for all the help.

I have a 83 kz750f1 that I've been working on for a few years. Just had valves done and new rings put in a month ago but I still have one problem that has not resolved. The issue is whenever I ride for about 15-20 mins, and the engine is hot, the bike starts to run very rough. Almost to the point of stalling. I've synced the carbs and adjusted the fuel height and still the same problem. It is actually tough to sync the carbs because as the engine gets hotter it drastically changes the vacuum in the cabs.

Today I replaced my stock coils with dyna 3 ohm coils I bought off a friend. I replaced them because I have a Dyna S ignition system. Now when ever I touch the spark plug boots I get a big shock. I just replaced the wires at the end of last season with dyna wires, so I dont think it would be the wires.

Any ideas where I should look for a electrical problem? Do you think this electrical problem is why my engine runs so rough when hot. I live in Canada and its not even hot here yet

Thank

bobski911 wrote: Hi guys, love this site and visit it all the time, so thanks for all the help.

I have a 83 kz750f1 that I've been working on for a few years. Just had valves done and new rings put in a month ago but I still have one problem that has not resolved. The issue is whenever I ride for about 15-20 mins, and the engine is hot, the bike starts to run very rough. Almost to the point of stalling. I've synced the carbs and adjusted the fuel height and still the same problem. It is actually tough to sync the carbs because as the engine gets hotter it drastically changes the vacuum in the cabs.

Today I replaced my stock coils with dyna 3 ohm coils I bought off a friend. I replaced them because I have a Dyna S ignition system. Now when ever I touch the spark plug boots I get a big shock. I just replaced the wires at the end of last season with dyna wires, so I dont think it would be the wires.

Any ideas where I should look for a electrical problem? Do you think this electrical problem is why my engine runs so rough when hot. I live in Canada and its not even hot here yet Hello,

Thank

Hello, bobski911, and WELCOME to KZrider!

Would assure valve clearances are within specs. Too tight valve clearances can cause the reported performance issues when the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

As Dyna plug wires are inexpensive, could replace them with brand new solid core (not suppression style) Dyna plug wires, using the caps already built into the Dyna plug wires.

www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=208

Would assure the coils are mounted whereby the plug wires exit upward and forward before looping down to the spark plugs. Assure that the heads of the screws attaching primary wires aren't shorting against a mounting spacer.

And also verify that the timing advancer is functioning correctly by using a strobe-type timing light, watching for the timing marks to move quickly back and forth as rpm is varied by blipping the throttle. The advancer may need lubing, or both cleaning and lubing.

Good Fortune!

Insure correct terminations....

Thanks for the reply guys. I will check the valve clearances to make sure, as well as the timing and advancer to see if that helps the poor idle.

It seems I only get a shock from plugs 1 and 4. I've switched coils around, and the wires and still get a shock from 1 and 4. I'm thinking I still may have a wiring problem somewhere. I had the bike into the shop last year to fix a wiring problem. There was a big draw somewhere in the electrical and my battery would never charge. The shop said my wire harness has been messed with by previous owner and that I should get a new one. I ended up getting a used harness off ebay. The shop installed it and said there were a few things they had to fix on the harness but got everything working. Turns out after all the work the battery was charging but still not up to 13v, and when testing with a voltmeter at 4k it would charge very slow. I was told to put some lower watt bulbs in my light and that seemed to give me the extra volts I needed.

Would what is happening with coils 1 and 4 give me some sort of clue as to where I should look? Should I follow the wires from the coil down the wire harness. I've checked and cleaned my ground wires on the frame and engine case.

I dont like electical!

Thanks again

buzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Yep, a lot of that today.......

bobski911 wrote: ... 83 kz750f1...Today I replaced my stock coils with dyna 3 ohm coils I bought off a friend. I replaced them because I have a Dyna S ignition system. Now when ever I touch the spark plug boots I get a big shock. I just replaced the wires at the end of last season with dyna wires, so I dont think it would be the wires....

Would suspect issue with plug wire and/or boot is responsible for the shock.
Examples might include burnt plug wire shorting to head, or excessive resistance in the cap.

Could be wrong, but thinking the stock coils have permanently attached plug wires.
At the end of last season, when replacing the plug wires on stock coils, how was this accomplished?

Some Dyna plug wire installers make the mistake of cutting off the Dyna caps and using the old resistor caps that may be improperly functioning.

If "R" (resistor) style spark plugs are currently installed, would replace them with standard stock non-resistor plugs.

I don't suspect a wiring harness or ground wire issue.

Good Fortune!

edit error

Yes Martin, that is how my stock coils worked. They're held in place by ribbed compression boots that unscrew from the coils. The dyna wires had the boots attached and the other end clean cut. When I connected the dyna coils I cut an inch off the wires and stripped the ends a bit, and connected them to the caps that plug into the coil. These caps came with the dyna wires.

Do you think it's strange that I only get a shock from wires that go to 1 and 4? As I said before, I switched all the wires around. So I put wires 1 and 4 to 2 and 3, and 2 and 3 to 1 and 4. I also switched the coils around, and still only get shocked from 1 and 4.

Does this still sound like wires?

Thanks for the help and replies guys

bobski911 wrote: Yes Martin, that is how my stock coils worked. They're held in place by ribbed compression boots that unscrew from the coils. The dyna wires had the boots attached and the other end clean cut. When I connected the dyna coils I cut an inch off the wires and stripped the ends a bit, and connected them to the caps that plug into the coil. These caps came with the dyna wires.

Do you think it's strange that I only get a shock from wires that go to 1 and 4? As I said before, I switched all the wires around. So I put wires 1 and 4 to 2 and 3, and 2 and 3 to 1 and 4. I also switched the coils around, and still only get shocked from 1 and 4.
Does this still sound like wires?....

Seems to rule out any issue with the spark plug wires

Where either coil with either plug wires only shocks on 1 and 4, and no combination of coil and plug wires shocks on 2 and 3 -- the only difference in the secondary loops between the "shocking" and "non-shocking" combinations are spark plugs #1 and #4.

Could try swapping the #1/4 spark plugs with #2/3 spark plugs to see whether it makes any difference in which plug wires are shocking.

While the plugs are removed, would also inspect the spark quality on each plug while spinning over the engine.
Should be fat blue sparks.

One other possible difference could be a coil mounting issue (on the left side, which fires #1/4 spark plugs), which I don't suspect in the situation at hand.

Good Fortune!

odd issue, intresting to follow....hope you find the little gremlin!

Okay Patton, you where right about everything. Just replaced all the plug resistor caps and no more shocks. I'm sure everything is working right now but I no longer have a multimeter. It fried in 2 seconds when I set it on the bike. Oops

I also pulled off the head cover and 3 exhaust valves were tight, and one a little loose. I really didn't think any would be off considering I just got it back from the shop last week and he made a valve adjustment. Can valves change that fast?

Thanks for the help guys. Patton you rock!