Complete Engine Rebuild

Sorry for the loaded question....I know its yes. Other than the manual locations on non-perm sealant - sealer, every engine nut, bolt, screw being re-furbed or replaced ..... Loctite and Anti-seize needed????


Thanks, Spencer

Not on my bike. I figure the engineers who designed these bikes understood a bit more than the average backyard mechanic (such as me), and if the bolts that did not call for locking agent stayed in place for 35+ years on my bike without it I don't need to add it if I remove and replace one of them. The only exception might be a little anti-seize on the carb holder screws or tach holder screw. They were a little tough to remove, but Kroil released them for me. Just use a quality torque wrench to ensure the fasteners are tight enough without stripping them and you shouldn't need any locking agent except where called for in the manual. Ed

As I've said before I would use the green wicking loctite, no need to risk something falling off at highway speeds. What the hell did those engineers in the '70's think anyway?

i love the blue loctite. i use that shit on everything. lol
many of these old bikes have had the bolts in and out of them several times over there long life. i feel that if i use a locking agent i dont have to risk tightening, some of the most often used bolts to the max, (and possibly stripping them), and i don’t have to worry about them coming loose.
just my way. many will have there personal favorite methods.

And when in doubt OMR sez: cross threaden workz better dan loc tite! :blink: :woohoo:

In as much as I have to take things apart more than once to get it right, I wouldnt do it, I have yet to take apart any kz motor and find loctite, but ya never know. :silly: