starter clutch

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26 May 2012 16:01 - 26 May 2012 16:08 #524970 by 80kz650cafe
starter clutch was created by 80kz650cafe
Hey Guys I've been beating my head against a wall for the last month trying to figure this kz1000 starter out. When I hit the starter it will start to turn then it just spins and sounds like its grinding. I replaced the starter clutch and rebuilt the starter while I had it a part and the same problem occurs I'm starting to lose it a little.
Last edit: 26 May 2012 16:08 by 80kz650cafe.

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26 May 2012 16:07 #524971 by 80kz650cafe
Replied by 80kz650cafe on topic starter clutch
O and i forgot to mention i inspected the gears and they seem to be fine.

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26 May 2012 16:16 #524972 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic starter clutch
Over Running Starter Clutch Repair On the Older, Bigger 4’S

1. When preparing to repair the starter over running clutch have a few items on hand:

A. New alternator cover gasket.
B. New springs (3).
C. New spring caps (3).
D. New rollers (3).

2. If possible, put the motorcycle on the center stand and tilt to the right to reduce the oil volume in the alternator cover.

3. Place an oil catch pan under the left side of the engine to collect what small amount of oil that will escape when the alternator cover is removed.

4. Remove the foot shifter lever, left foot peg assembly and the sprocket cover.

5. Some Kawasaki’s have socket head cap screws(Allen type) and others may have fasteners with a Phillips type. If the latter is there, a # 3 bit seems to work the best for removal.

6. Remove the alternator cover and take care with the three wires coming from the alternator stator. These are the voltage supply wires for the motorcycle. Rest the cover on some newspaper or rags to prevent damage.

7. The magnetic Rotor or flywheel will probably require a removal bolt or puller. NOTE, SOME ENGINES HAVE LEFT HAND THREADS ON THE ROTOR!!

8. The over running clutch is bolted to the back of the rotor with three Allen head fasteners.

9. Separate the rotor from the over running clutch and inspect for damage in the springs, rollers, and spring caps. Replace any worn parts.

10. Re-assemble in reverse order taking care when re-installing the Alternator cover not to pinch any wires. If the cover will not re-install without force, check before any damage occurs.

11.One caution. These tend to get the skips and have difficulty with the one way clutch on the starter holding once they have been taken apart if the old parts are reused. They may not look that worn, but as a matter of course I would replace the entire part # 13193-1006 and part # 92026-112.

12.Also, if you presently have a follow-on rattle or growl once the bike has started take a good look at the starter motor gear, Part # 21167-002, and the pin on which it rotates. That gear and pin tends to wear the center bearing surface after only thirty or so years and then cocks under load and puts the starter clutch assembly in a bind causing it to skip or rattle. One problem looks like the other.

13.Use assembly lube when putting the starter gear back together with the pin.

14. Read this procedure from Red Line Cycle:
redlinecycle.com/Starter%20Clutch%20Tech.html
(It may show a blank page, but information is there).


15. A video on how to do this repair:

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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26 May 2012 16:22 #524973 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic starter clutch
Starter Motor Removal (if you plan on inspecting the starter motor, or do an upgrade)

Looking at my shop manual it says to remove:

1.The fuel tank.

2.Carbs.

3.Cam chain tensioner cap and pull out the spring and push rod stop.

4. I’d disconnect the Negative(-) battery terminal to prevent accidental shorting.

5.Remove the shaft and reduction gear.

6.Remove the starter motor retaining bolts (2).

7.Pry the starter motor loose from the crankcase with a screwdriver.

8.Slide the starter motor off towards the right side of the engine and lift it upwards.

There's a note stating "DO NOT TAP ON THE STARTER MOTOR SHAFT OR BODY, TAPPING MAY DAMAGE THE SHAFT OR MOTOR.

9.Slide out the rubber cap, remove the starter motor terminal nut and lock washer, and take the lead off the motor.

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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26 May 2012 16:26 #524975 by MFolks
Replied by MFolks on topic starter clutch
Using a Honda Mitsuba SM-220 Starter in the Kz (copied from the KZ rider website)

The CB F's used 2 different starters. Look for the one marked .8kw. They also have one that is .7kw. The owner noticed a difference when he installed his. He read that you can remove the outer housing, and rotate it. this will re-align the outer power terminal, to a better location. if you don’t do this, you will need to grind some metal from the chain cover to gain clearance.

Also install a heavier gauge wire to the starter , I’d recommend 6 AWG(American Wire Gauge) welding cable with the correct terminal ends to match the treaded studs for the solenoid and starter motor. Don’t forget the cable from the battery to the solenoid.

The stock KZ starter is .6kw in size

www.stockers.com/index.php?dt=HS-29 (Mitsuba SM-220)

1982 GPZ1100 B2
General Dynamics/Convair 1983-1993
GLCM BGM-109 Tomahawk, AGM-129A Advanced Cruise Missile (ACM)

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01 Jun 2012 20:25 #526327 by 80kz650cafe
Replied by 80kz650cafe on topic starter clutch
Just in case anyone else reads this i ended up polishing the actual starter clutch assembly and it worked. Go figure.

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