Cover installation method??

Just hoping for a quick survey of favored methods for installing side covers, IE dry, or with some sort of chemical.

Thanks!

New, tight grommets with side covers installed dry.



Example of another method, but more difficult to access and requires raising the seat.




Good Fortune!

Hmmmm...

I meant engine covers...

stator, clutch, kicker, oil pan, cam cover, these type.

Can't say I have experience with the KZ1000, but on the KZ650 the engine covers go on dry except for a couple small spots. The KZ650 Kawasaki service manual shows where to apply sealant. AS an example, when installing the clutch cover, sealant is applied on the 2 spots on the engine where the gasket crosses the seam between the engine castings. Best bet IMO is to consult the manual, it should show where sealant is needed. I followed the book and have no leaks. Ed

This photo is from oldkawman, looks like orange case sealant squirting out of all the covers...

Doesnt seem like this should be necessary, but I have also heard of folks using rtv and other things I believe.

First instinct was to just follow the manual, but now Im figuring a census first is a good idea.

Could probably use something like a hitch pin clip to scrape off most of that orange stuff.

Good Fortune!

notaduc wrote:

This photo is from oldkawman, looks like orange case sealant squirting out of all the covers...

Doesnt seem like this should be necessary, but I have also heard of folks using rtv and other things I believe.

First instinct was to just follow the manual, but now Im figuring a census first is a good idea.

Yuck! That's a good demo on why you should put gaskets on dry. I have given this matter considerable thought, and made the following observation:

Here’s my view on using sealant; others may disagree. If the idea of putting sealant on a gasket is to prevent a leak, please consider the following. Let’s say you have two metal surfaces, i.e. an engine block and a tensioner housing, and there’s a paper gasket that goes between the two. The purpose of the paper gasket is to prevent oil from leaking between the two metal components. So let’s say you put the gasket in there dry (no sealant at all) and bolt the housing to the block squeezing the gasket between the two. Now consider if you could see that housing/gasket/block joint from inside the engine. You would see metal (the block), the inner edge of the gasket, and metal (the tensioner housing). Now you splash plenty of oil inside that area so the joint is soaked in it. Now looking from inside the engine you see oily metal (block), the oily the inner edge of the gasket, and oily metal (the tensioner housing). If the oil is going to seep between the metal and the gasket will the oil care if it seeps between the block and the gasket or the tensioner housing and the gasket? No, if it is going to leak it can leak on the block side or the housing side of the gasket. So, IF the only way to prevent a leak was to put sealant on the gasket you would need to put it on both sides. Fortunately, the dry paper gasket will not leak on either side, so no sealant is needed. This assumes no one has gouged the metal mating surfaces when trying to remove a gasket that some previous owner has glued on because they didn’t know sealant was not needed. In that case seal may be needed but only on the gouged area. This brings up another point; in the Kawasaki service manual there are a FEW areas where sealant is called for. The best example I can give is two spots on the KZ650 clutch cover gasket. The manual calls for sealant on the two (about 1 inch) spots on the engine side of the clutch cover gasket where the gasket covers the joints between the lower and upper engine castings. This is required because mating surface has a seam at these engine casing joints which the gasket alone may not seal. This may not be obvious to someone doing this job the first time. So my best advice is to always consult the service manual to see if and where sealant is required rather than just gluing the gaskets on and later having to scrape them off. Also, you’ll save money by not needing to replace gaskets as often because the ones put on dry can be more easily reused. The CD recording of this speech is available at the door. Ed

You know if that much gasket maker is sticking out on the outside, most likely theres some on the inside of the engine.Hopefully it dont come loose. If you decide to use selant dont use alot.

The only place on the 900/1000 I have had to silicone was the stator cover bottom half. But I think the leak was really from the wire grommet - get a new one and you'll probably be able to go dry. Some have stated using copper coat on one side makes it easier to remove and reinstall using the same gasket, but that user is probably also a cheap-ass Nebraskan who doesn't post anymore.... :whistle: :evil:

Some good advice here , that's how I do it.

I also share Dan's views on sealer types, the only sealer I ever let near my engines is ThreeBond (aka Hondabond, Yamabond etc.).

Btw, that pic above... :sick: