Non running 1982 kzp-1

Hello everyone, I am a new owner of a 1982 Kawasaki kzp 1. I have a question. The story on this bike is that it has 38,0000 original miles, it was recently rebuilt, turning it from 1000 to 1100cc. The valves have been ported. The bike is in nice condition.

I bought the bike a month ago, from a friend of a friend. He said he started it this spring, and it was running fine. He let it run in his driveway, got distracted and the bike stopped running and he hasn't been able to get it started since. Although, he has done nothing more to the bike. Upon quick inspection, it has NGK wires which have some melt marks on the spark plug wire casing, and NGK spark plugs. The bike still doesnt run, and it doesnt even turn over. The bike looks great sitting in the driveway, but I am wondering what are the common problems with this bike? Is there something I should be sure to check first? I plan on changing the spark plugs and wires, but would like to know what others have had good success with. I have heard the denso spark plug w24-esu works well.

I have been messing with it this afternoon. Its does turn over but doesnt fire. i think it is a top end problem. It is getting gas and does have spark, but not willing to fire.

This is my first bike, I have numerous hot rods. I can do all the work, just excited to ride the bike. Thanks for your help!

Welcome to the board.
congrats on the new bike. as far as problems with these bike. there are fairly bullet proof, but age is a bike problem. as long as the maint is kept up, there great,.

sparks but doesnt fire. couple things come to mind, spark is too week, spark is at the wrong time, too much or not enough,fuel to fire.
u said there was some kind of melt marks on the wires? id start there. 1st thing u'll want is a manual.
look at the bottom of my signature. there is a manual there. grab a beer and start reading lol
its all about enjoying the hobby brother. :lol: just dont have too many and fall off your stool. :woohoo:

I'd remove the sparkplugs,remove a right side cover on the engine that's about CD sized, and using 13or 14mm wrench, try to turn the engine over. DO NOT USE THE BOLT IN THE CENTER AS IF IT SHEARS OFF INSIDE THE CRANKSHAFT, $$$$ TO DRILL IT OUT.Spraying PB Blaster in the sparkplug holes might loosen up the engine, but you're looking at a rebuild.

It's possible the engine overheated & seized up from prolonged idle with no cooling air. The worst I'd think will be stuck piston rings, possibly burned valves.

Air cooled bike's should not(In my opinion) idle longer than 8-10 minutes as they need air moving past the cooling fins of the engine

Reading along, I see the engine will turn over, so here's some checking to do:

Ohm Checking Pickup(Pulsing) Coils

The pickup(Pulsing) coils on the Kawasaki’s with the factory supplied electronic ignition can sometimes fail or become intermittent due to heat and vibration.

1.Trace back from where the pick up coils are mounted,(BEHIND A RIGHT SIDE, CD SIZED COVER) locate and disconnect a small 4 pin connector. Using a multi-meter set on OHMS and range of 2K, check between the BLUE and BLACK wires(#1 and #4 sparkplug wires) for between 360- 540 OHMS.

2.For #2 and #3 sparkplugs the wire colors will be YELLOW and RED, again 360-540 OHMS. The 550’s,650’s & 750’s may be backwards to the Z1’s,Kz900’s,Kz1000’s & Kz1100’s.

3.If the pickup coils are suspect of failing due to heat, they can be stressed using a hair dryer without the need of the engine running.

4.A replacement set of pickup coils might be obtained from a dealer who serviced the police Kawasaki’s.

5. If replacement pickup coils are not available, your next choice would be to order a Dyna “S” electronic ignition system from www.z1enterprises.com It replaces the IC igniter with a smaller module located where the mechanical ignition advancer was mounted.

6. Checking with Kawasaki.com website has determined that the Pick up(pulsing) coils are available . The pulsing coil # is 59026-1133 and replaces the older # 1002, 1012 which were used from the MKII motors until the 2005 P24.

7.Check the small 4 pin connector that the pickup coils connect to for corrosion/loose pins too.




Testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils For Input Voltage

When voltage testing Kawasaki Ignition Coils, the following needs to be done:

1. Remove the fuel/gas tank to access the coils.

2. Fully charge the battery.

3. Using a multimeter, set it up for VDC(Volts, Direct Current), range of 20.

4. Turn on the ignition switch and the run/stop switch to “Run”.

5. Put the multimeter’s RED probe on where the red or red/yellow wire goes on the ignition coil.

6. Put the multimeter’s BLACK probe on either the battery Negative(-) post/terminal or a good frame ground.

7. You should be able to see battery voltage at the ignition coil connection, but this depends on the current draw of other items in the same circuit.

8. If the tested voltage is down to 8-9 volts, you probably need to clean the many and various electrical connectors.



Cleaning Motorcycle Electrics

1. Get some of the De-Oxit electrical contact cleaner and figure on spending a good day going from the front of the bike to the back. It’s a plastic safe cleaner/preservative. www.deoxit.com is their website. Or use any plastic safe electrical contact cleaner(NOT WD-40 !).

2. On the older Kawasaki's, a majority of electrical connectors are inside the headlight housing requiring removal of the headlight, then the fun begins.

3. Do one set of electrical connectors at a time to avoid mixing up what connects to where. Usually disconnecting, spraying with De-Oxit and reconnecting is about all you'll need.

4. However, when encountering the green crud of corrosion, a brass wire brush may be needed on the pins you can reach. Some 400-600 grit wet and dry sandpaper strips rolled into a tube should reach the male and female pins in the more difficult to clean connectors.

5. Smoker’s pipe cleaners, cotton swabs and wooden toothpicks work as cleaning aids.

6. Really small electrical connectors may require the use of a welders tip cleaning tool assortment.

7. Most pins in the connectors are coated with a thin plating of tin, and others may be nothing more than copper or brass.

8. If moisture is added, the resulting corrosion lowers the voltage/current being carried causing dim lights, slow engine cranking, slow turn signal responce and lower input voltage to the ignition coils resulting in weak spark.

9. The left and right handlebar switch pods will need attention too as they have circuit functions like turn, horn, run/stop, and start. The older Kawasaki’s have reports of the soldered connections crumbling, if your bike has this problem, just ask, as I’ve got a repair procedure for this.

10. Usually a spritz or two with actuation of the switch is about all needed for these switches unless corrosion is detected and then careful disassembly is required.

11. The ignition switch may or may be not sealed to allow spraying the internal contacts. I urge caution if attempting to open this up as springs, and ball bearings may fly out never to be seen again!

12. If your bike has the older style glass tubed fuses, I suggest replacing them as vibration can cause internal failure. AGX is the type used, and most auto parts stores can get them for you.

13. Clean the fuse holder clips, looking for signs of overheating(discolored insulation, signs of melting). I use metal polish on a cotton swab, followed by spraying another clean swab with the De-Oxit and then rubbing the inside of the fuse clip.

14. All battery cables must be clean and tight for maximum current transfer. Check the cables going from the Negative(-) battery terminal/post to the engine mounting bolt

15. Also the one going from the Positive(+) terminal to the starter solenoid and from there to the starter motor.

16. If any battery cable feels ”Crunchy” when flexed, replace it as possible corrosion is inside the insulation.

17. Each "Bullet Connector" will have to be sprayed to ensure good connectivity, especially the ones going to the energizing coil of the starter solenoid.

18. The alternator output “Bullet Connectors” are usually behind the engine sprocket cover and will need inspecting and cleaning too.

20. The turn signal light sockets will benefit from a spritz from the contact cleaner along with the tail light/brake light socket.

21. Some brake light switches can be sprayed on the actuating rod, with the spray running down inside to the electrical contacts, others may be sealed requiring replacement if the switch is intermittent in operation.

22. Some people put the Di-Electric Grease on cleaned terminations/connectors, I don’t, as I’ve read/heard it can cause problems when it gets hot, actually insulating the connections, so the choice is yours to use or not.

I think I've covered about all of the electrical systems on the bike.........

“I spent a weekend going through every electrical connection and switch on the bike with a little scotchbrite pad and DeOxit - what a difference! Everything was brighter, gauge backlights, indicator lights, turn signals, I was getting a nicer spark, it fired up quicker, etc. Well worth my time. WELL worth it! “

From a forum member at www.kzrider.com

Thanks for the reply, I just got the bike today. I have four tubs of parts, 2 manuals, and a cd. I just haven't had the time to look at them yet....but tonight I will. I think the problem is in the timing...I am also concerned that the timing chain for the cams is broke or off...I am REAL happy I got it to turn over...meaning it was not frozen or the starter was not stuck engaged...Its about beer 30, I will take your advice and read some manuals tonight.

Hey! I really appreciate the information. The motor looks and sounds like it should fire, it just won't...I will start with what you have suggested and post more pics later tonight. I Just broke the clutch cable, called and have a new one on the way...The bike, I am hopeing, just needs a few parts and off on the road I will go! Thanks again for your information.

Great news! she fired and took off after I changed the spark plugs. I read in the manual that I received in the 4 boxes of stuff that, the plugs can foul from excessive ideling...I went and bought new, charged the battery, and she took off. Man what a great buy! I love the help I have received from this site!