Odd new noise

I just had the chain and sprockets changed on my 2001 P20 KZ1000, it came stock with 15/41 and I dropped it to 16/38...so far very happy with the new gearing. However, when riding yesterday I noticed that when I take off from a very slow speed, or dead stop, I get a slight clunk as the clutch is being fully released...I don't believe it did this prior to being at the shop, but cannot say for sure. Anyone have any idea what could possibly be causing this odd noise? The only thing I could even begin to imagine was that the clutch adjustment got moved when they pulled the cover to replace the sprocket...it was apart for almost a week waiting on parts??

possible the smaller sprockets lets the chain hit something like the swingarm crossbar when the chain goes up and down?

I'd put the bike on the centerstand & spin the rear wheel. If the noise is still there, remove the engine sprocket cover and do an inspection for rubbbing parts.

Here's how to do the clutch cable replacement, and the throwout mechanism adjustment is toward the bottom:


Clutch Cable Replacement On Some Kawasaki Motorcycles
With Proper Mechanism Adjustments

1.About mid way down the clutch cable is an adjuster; shorten the cable as much as possible.

2.Remove the small cover on the left side of the sprocket cover and loosen up the lock nut on the clutch throw out mechanism.

3.Remove the shifter lever; the sprocket cover, and lay the cover on some rags or news papers.

4.Have on hand a small cotter pin that will be needed to prevent the new clutch cable from coming out of the throw out mechanism.

5.At the left handlebar turn in the slack adjusters for the clutch cable and then take out the pivot bolt.

6.New clutch cables may or may not have lubrication; now's the time to either hang the new cable up overnight so heavy oil can flow through it or buy a cable luber kit with the special clamp and can of spray lube.

7.Attach the cable to the cover's throw out mechanism and secure it with a new cotter pin.

8. While you're in there, check the wiring from the alternator(YELLOW WIRES, or any wires from the alternator), remove the excess chain lube from the clutch push rod and check the wire routing that goes above the engine sprocket.

9. Check the lock washer for cracks on the engine sprocket and any "Hooking" of the sprocket teeth.

10 Route the clutch cable the same way the old one was and connect the cable to the clutch lever; and the pivot bolt gets re-installed.

11.Carefully install the sprocket cover, making sure the push rod is engaged (in the adjustment mechanism)and then tighten up the cover.

12.Adjusting the clutch play and cable tension is real easy; using a flat bladed screwdriver, turn the slotted screw clockwise(to the right) until it becomes hard to turn; then turn it counterclockwise(to the left) 1/4 turn and tighten the lock nut. On some Kawasaki’s, the adjustment will turn the opposite way, so keep this in mind.

13.The mid way cable adjuster and lever slack adjuster may need to be adjusted for correct cable slack.

14.My factory shop manual lists 2-3mm as the correct play in the lever after the cable has been properly tensioned.

15.Re-install the covers, and shifter lever, start the engine to check the shifting action.

16.These engines have a shifting lock out to prevent moving in any gear higher than second unless the engine is running and proper shifting is done.

Thanks, I will do the once over on the bike, then get worried