TOPIC:

I want to see the pictures of your bike with a Corvette engine in it.

APE Jay wrote: Larry;
It is your turn to tell them about taking their heads to automotive machine shops.

Funny you mention that Jay I have that head from New Mexico that I'm finishing up for Velocity Cycles. What a meess..... KZ head, had 38.6 /32's in it. Going to be run with .500 / .470 cams with 1.00 base circles.

Had 7 PM buckets that varied in thickness from .103 - 1.09 and ONE stock Kaw bucket

The guy had 300 shims in it and could stack feeler gauges under the lobe.

Needs a 1.523" installed height for use with a set of your .107 buckets. They were all under 1.460".

I turned the 38.6's into 37.8 and the 32 exhausts into 31. Sunk them and ported it for 1428 motor. You cannot get a KZ port large enough for a 1428 motor no matter how many places you burn through and epoxy... but you can get a GPz11 to work pretty well.

This one's for Max. It just got new exhaust seats. I was able to save the intakes but the nitrous played hell on all the seats.

How did they get 38.6 /32 in a KXZ1000? Did it have oversize seats in it?

I ran into something I have only seen a few times in all of the years I have been doing this stuff. A KZ1000 head without the valve job finished from the factory, on the exhaust side only. Intakes were finished.

It looks like the seats were opened up like we would do of a real performance head, then where the 45 should be, it is just a sharp corner. I believe these heads had the valve jobs done in stages, and this one missed the last stage. Now a days, all of that is CNC so it would never happen.

I had it in the Serdi when I noticed it, so I cut one of them, then took a photo incase anyone ever doubts me when I tell this.

If you have never run across this, let me know and I will send you a photo.

I have been thinking of something lately. When those KZ heads are porrted that big, there is not much area for the rubber manifold to seal when it is installed. Usually have to build up some silicone around the back to make it seal good.

Suppose when you started, you took one of my nitrous plated and bolted it to the head, epoxy around where it meets the port in back, then port the whole thing. Thern as you can see, there would be great sealing for the manifolds on the front. You can put 1/16 pipe plugs in the nozzle holes if it is not going to run nitrous.

APE Jay wrote:

I have been thinking of something lately. When those KZ heads are porrted that big, there is not much area for the rubber manifold to seal when it is installed. Usually have to build up some silicone around the back to make it seal good.

Suppose when you started, you took one of my nitrous plated and bolted it to the head, epoxy around where it meets the port in back, then port the whole thing. Thern as you can see, there would be great sealing for the manifolds on the front. You can put 1/16 pipe plugs in the nozzle holes if it is not going to run nitrous.

That's exactly what I'm doing Jay. Customer was already into the ports with a porting tool hogging the entrances and the nitrous mainfold. Cut them so thin a couple spots the manifold would not seal. Epoxy is the solution.

les holt wrote: Are you confident you have cam timing right? Gut feeling speaking here but I'm guessing you have bigger problems elsewhere. Hope I'm wrong! Did you happen to roll the motor over with the head off?

Les

Unfortunately, I'm with Les here. If your cam timing is incorrect, you may have already bent your valves again. You say that the motor turns freely with the head off, but won't turn with it on even though the plugs are out. To me that means that the valves are hitting the pistons. If you had so much compression that it was hard to turn over it wouldn't be an issue with the plugs out. The machine shop can do a perfect job on your head, but if the cam timing is out, then you are crashing valves.

I well pull the head back off and do a leak down test too today.

Do the leak down, then pull the head after if you find problems. I know the cam marks are misleading to say the least if you don't have clear instruction in front of you or considerable knowledge with them. Good Luck getting it lined out.

Les

jeffecor wrote: I had the mechine shop go thou my cycle head and replace three bent valve. I put it back together and the engines turn slowly every be jump the battery off the car.. sometimes turn the engine gets stuck turning and i have to manual turn it. i just rebuild the starter last night everything look good with that.. i was wondering if the start clutch is going out? in side the engine. if you had these problem please help thank you.

Before you get in any deeper, take a deep breath, step back and check a few things over.

1- There's no way to analyze what may be causing the cranking problem based on the information you provided. Jump starting it could be the problem in itself.

If you don't have a leak down tester, get a compression tester. Hold the throttle wide open and crank the motor over. See what the gauge reads on the first snap. You should see 100lbs or darn close.

If you have that on all 4 cylinders, you probably haven't damaged any valves. If it's Zero or very low, pull the valve cover and see what you have for valve lash on the low holes.

If it's a bent valve, generally the lash will be excessive because the valve can't seat. It could also be just a tight valve situation [no lash]. DID YOU CHECK THE LASH AFTER YOU INSTALLED THE FRESHLY REBUILT HEAD?

Not in every case, but many times when an automotive shop does a valve job on one of these old motorcycle heads, the valve installed height isn't taken into consideration. That can lead to tight valves and no compression. It won't lead to a bent valve. Only improper installation of the cam shafts will cause that.

I don't care what Kawasaki KZ engine you have. You want to see at least .004" [.05mm] lash on every valve. Yes it will run with as little at .0005 but that's not what you want to be starting off with on a fresh rebuild.

Check those simple but crucial items before you go further. If compression is good & cam timing is correct, your troubles lie elsewhere. It can be a simple as the main idle screw set too high holding the throttle open too far for a cold start

Well i got it to fire but still have the problem.. I took the starter off and cleaned it again went step by step from the book everything check out with that.. i try to turn the start clutch with my hand it well not turn the one way so i think its ok. wondering if i was off on on the valve height would that cause the engine to have problem trying to turn over. I redid the timing and playing around with it for 30 min got it to fire up and drove it up to 30 mph. I upload a video

I would start with getting a good battery because i would think very much of trying to start it like that would burn something up.

It has a new battery. Dose the same thing fully charged.