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Leaking Carb
- kool4kawis
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- live is just evil in the mirror
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- saxonpirate
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- 1983 KZ1100 LTD
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If they are BS34's and you have pods fitted, remove the pod and push the slide up with your finger. Let go and the slide should return in one smooth movement. A mirror might help to see what's going on. As far as float height goes for the B34's, mine are 18.6mm +/- 1mm. This is for a KZ1100 ltd though, so check out the web for your bike. There may be a difference. Here's a link to a pdf by Ed Ness regarding the rebuild of Mikuni Carbs. Although it's aimed at Suzuki owners, it's very informative and features B34 CV carbs. Well worth downloading... COPY AND PASTE THE WHOLE LINK
www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_B...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
Re-jetting for exhaust and pods, the concensus of opinion seems to be an uprating of the main jet and "sometimes" the pilot jet, along with re-clipping the needle. I've actually gone the other way with my bike and returned to the stock air box and stock exhaust. Main 120 to stock 117.5 with stock pilot of 37.5 This is a subject which in my opinion requires a degree of experimentation with jetting and needle height, and there are many on this forum with far more practice than I have regarding uprating carbs, hopefully someone will come along...
1983 KZ1100 LTD..
Ride like your life depended on it
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- kool4kawis
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- Patton
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Fuel may have also entered the crankcase and contaminated the oil.kool4kawis wrote: Fired the motor up for the first time today and noticed fuel leaking out of the throat on the filter side of the #2 carb. Do I have a stuck slide or is it in the float, don't know much about carbs obviously. Also could anyone tell me the float height for a BS34. What jets should I be using for a stock CSR 1000 with aftermarket exhaust and pods.
Fuel rising high enough to enter the carb throat typically results from a leaking float valve (for whatever reason) and thereafter getting past the overflow circuit (where so equipped).
The proper float height is whatever produces the correct fuel level.
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1973 Z1
KZ900 LTD
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- AtLarge
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saxonpirate wrote: You don't say if the bike has been stood for sometime or the carbs rebuilt/cleaned...
If they are BS34's and you have pods fitted, remove the pod and push the slide up with your finger. Let go and the slide should return in one smooth movement. A mirror might help to see what's going on. As far as float height goes for the B34's, mine are 18.6mm +/- 1mm. This is for a KZ1100 ltd though, so check out the web for your bike. There may be a difference. Here's a link to a pdf by Ed Ness regarding the rebuild of Mikuni Carbs. Although it's aimed at Suzuki owners, it's very informative and features B34 CV carbs. Well worth downloading... COPY AND PASTE THE WHOLE LINK
www.mtsac.edu/~cliff/storage/gs/Mikuni_B...Rebuild_Tutorial.pdf
Re-jetting for exhaust and pods, the concensus of opinion seems to be an uprating of the main jet and "sometimes" the pilot jet, along with re-clipping the needle. I've actually gone the other way with my bike and returned to the stock air box and stock exhaust. Main 120 to stock 117.5 with stock pilot of 37.5 This is a subject which in my opinion requires a degree of experimentation with jetting and needle height, and there are many on this forum with far more practice than I have regarding uprating carbs, hopefully someone will come along...
That link is a good guide but one thing I find odd is the float height reference. My Kawi Service Manual says for my year 82 and up should be 18mm for BS34's whereas this guide says to use 22mm.
I don't recall my float or valve looking any different so why such a big variance?
My system is totally stock. How will changing my height to 22mm effect performance?
1973 Honda CL70-K3
1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C
1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1
1994 BMW K1100RS
2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120
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- mark1122
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- Keep twisting it
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the dif in levels from 1 model to another would be related to the amount of vacuum the bike has available, to pull the fuel from the bowl. A bike with a smaller intake track, will have a higher vacuum signal..
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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- AtLarge
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mark1122 wrote: the higher the fuel level in the bowl , the easier it is for it to be drawn up the jets. (think, more pressure). so a higher level will make it run richer.
the dif in levels from 1 model to another would be related to the amount of vacuum the bike has available, to pull the fuel from the bowl. A bike with a smaller intake track, will have a higher vacuum signal..
Therein lies the problem with my understanding. If you can get past my shoddy paint graphic dumb this down for me.
If you are set at 22mm and change it to 18mm doesn't the level of fuel in the bowl get higher (closer to the jet) thus making it easier to pick up and run richer? Moving it from 18 to 22 would shut the flow off sooner, lowering the level and lean it out? So why recommend a measurement of 22mm?
1973 Honda CL70-K3
1975 Kawasaki 350 F9-C
1983 Kawasaki KZ750-K1
1994 BMW K1100RS
2008 Suzuki GSX1300-BKK8 #1120
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- mark1122
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when u look at it like this :silly: its easier.
76 KZ, frame gusset work,1200CC.Ported by Larry Cavanaugh, 1.5mm.over intakes, Carron Pipe, ZRX12 rear end, and seat,96zx9 front end.
01 CBR600F4i Track bike.
Cobourg, Ont. Can.
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~ (k) / (z)
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