Before installing gasket kit...

I got this nice running bike 3 month ago. It is an 82 KZ1100 GPZ. I rode it on the highway for 300 miles, something I won't be doing again with a bike I don't know. The bike run very good but it started leaking from all engine gaskets.
In order to take care of the oil leak I got the gasket kit and the service manual. Tomorrow I will have a buddy helping me to pull the engine and leave it ready to start taking everything apart. Since I have never done this with a KZ or with any other bike and you have so much experience, what would you recommend me to put special attention to or to make sure I replace????
I will check everything in there to make sure things are by the book. The only problem with the bike are the leaks it has because I took her to a level of stress this old lady is not used to, but other than that it has the power to even get to 110mph.... do not ask me how I know this..
I would really appreciate any help from you guys and thanks in advance
You can see her here

Pat

Most gasket kits do not come with O-rings for the oil passageways, or for the oil filter, so make sure to get those. Also, the tach drive seal and the shift shaft seal are good ones to replace if you are going to be replacing everything else.
Another thing that helped me was reading that KZ's do NOT have phillips head screws, the are JIS heads. JIS don't have so pointy a tip. So be careful, phillips head screw drivers will ruin many of the screws.

You will also want to check your idle gears and idler sprockets. Especially the cam chain tensioner. The hard plastic will want to wear, so check them out before reassembly to see if they need to be replaced.
I'd probably write more, but I am very tired and need to get to sleep. Chime in everyone. And good luck mate.

Before tearing anything apart, I would clean the engine and do a detailed track to see where the oil is coming from. A small leak on top will blow all over the place and make a mess but might only be a cover gasket or tach drive seal.

Don't go nuts taking a strong running engine apart if you don't need to.

I like that suggestion.

Chaotic Reason wrote: Most gasket kits do not come with O-rings for the oil passageways, or for the oil filter, so make sure to get those. Also, the tach drive seal and the shift shaft seal are good ones to replace if you are going to be replacing everything else.
Another thing that helped me was reading that KZ's do NOT have phillips head screws, the are JIS heads. JIS don't have so pointy a tip. So be careful, phillips head screw drivers will ruin many of the screws.

You will also want to check your idle gears and idler sprockets. Especially the cam chain tensioner. The hard plastic will want to wear, so check them out before reassembly to see if they need to be replaced.
I'd probably write more, but I am very tired and need to get to sleep. Chime in everyone. And good luck mate.

That engine does not have idler sprockets. It has guide shoes and a hyvo cam chain.

Doesn't seem to smoke at all I second the advice on not taking it apart further than you have to.

But, If you're going to take it all the way down, put a new cam chain in it and make sure you inspect the thrust bearing clearance on the crankshaft. J motors are known for failed thrust bearings. If you find that problem, call John Pearson (937) 839-9723. Good work, fair pricing.

You can get an indication of the thrust bearing condition by removing the ignition cover. With the bike idling, rev it a little and watch the ignition bolt to see if the crank walks in and out. If it does, the thrust bearing is the culprit.

Cam chain tensioners are also a common problem.

The age of the bike can work in your favor sometimes. It's within reason to find that someone else already addressed the crankshaft weakness

If you degrease the engine, you can use spray foot powder on the suspected leak area. It's great for head gasket and base gasket leaks in the front of the motor where the oil blows around and makes it look like it leaks everwhere.

If the leak is severe enough, you don't even need to ride the bike to find it. Just block off the crank breather, raise the idle to about 2K and watch for the spot where the powder starts to turn brown. If it's an extended running time, put a fan on the motor. A few minutes of running will build enough pressure in the motor to find the leak. If it doesn't, ride it around the block.

J motors had issues with all kinds of oil leaks. Everything from porous cylinder blocks to head gaskets.

spray foot powder , this is why i love readin larrys posts, always something to be learned

Very helpfull tips here guys.
When I got home the first thing I did was rush and order the valve cover gasket because I assumed it was tat the only leak. Nexct day I relaxed and degreased the whole engine and once dry I turned on and waited. Soon enough smoke started coming and I found out that I needed the whole gassket kit because it was leaking everywhere...
Engine again runs super strong.
I will have to wait a littlebit more to start working on because my friend did not showed up. Anyways, I will try to order some things in the mean time.
This is a list of things to check and/or replace that I came out with your advice and after some research:
* NEW valve springs, guides, cam chain, rings (after check if need it), new sleeve if out of num,bers, honing the cylinders (i do not think will need it), lap valves and clean off valves, replace cylinder studs, new shift shafty seal, tach drive seal, oil filter ring, valves steam seals. Check piston and measure. MAYBE replace friction plates since I am already there. Also, check crosshatching in cylindersand thrustv bearing. clearance on the cranckshaft.
Well, looks that I will be learning a lot about the bike. I also hope this list will help someone in the same situation than me.
Thanks for your advice and I will let you know how things go as soon as I get it off the frame. Fill free to add up more points to that list .
Pat

If you need machine work done I have had excellent luck with Joe at Pitstop who advertises here for piston boring and fitting. I used Cometic brand gaskets and Yamabond during assembly to keep motor from leaking or weeping oil.