79 kz1000 valve clearance question

I have a 79 kz 1000ltd and I just checked the valve clearance.
After I checked the clearance i was reading and realized i was supposed to do it with the engine cold.
I did it after a ride so the engine was warm.
Will this throw off the actual measurment? most of them were .006 and a couple were .004 which is within spec but would it be different if it was cold?
Is it ok to hear a little noise in the engine? it sounds to me like noise from loose valves. which is why i checked them.

Metal expands when warn/hot, so let the engine cool and re-check the clearances.


Checking valve clearances

When I do my readings I always have the lobe of the cam pointing away from the shim bucket. I do not go in the order that the manual states. I do one side then the other side.
roy-b-boy-b (User)

Re:Valve clearances
Then you can use your feeler gauges
Start with the minimum (thinnest) gauge and check the clearances.

If you can't get the feeler gauge between the cam and the shim, check and see if you can spin the bucket with your finger. If you can, you do have some clearance but not enough.

I don't have my manual in the house so I don't know if your clearances are in tolerance.

If the big numbers are showing too wide then you can swap them to the valves that have no clearance to see if that will bring them into the proper tolerance Roy

Patton (User)
Re:Valve clearances (is this correct way to read them
Aim for 0.05~0.10mm (.002~.004in) clearance for each valve, measured with cam lobe pointed directly away from the valve.

Shim sizes come in .05mm steps. For example, with a 2.75mm shim, the next thinner shim is 2.70mm, and the next thicker shim is 2.80mm.

The existing shim must be removed (special tool) to read it's size on its underside. If the number is illegible, a caliper or micrometer may be used to measure its thickness.

As Roy mentioned, where clearance is insufficient, but the shim turns, there is some minimal clearance. So the next size smaller shim will likely suffice. If there's zero clearance and the shim won't turn, probably needs a shim two sizes thinner.

Typically, the existing shims may be mixed around to gain proper clearance for some of the valves.

Re:Valve clearances
Here's the way I was tought by factory Kawasaki mechanic Keith Pestotnik RIP.
Turn engine over slowly while constantly trying to insert a .05mm feeler. If it fits, constantly try to insert a .10mm feeler and so on to find the largest feeler in .05mm increments that will fit at any rotation of the cam. Do this on all 8 valves. Call this your clearance, so if a .10mm fits and a .15mm does not, call .10mm your clearance. Do this on each valve. I try to get all at .10mm. Sure some may be .11mm, some .13mm ect, but who cares? Shims are available in only .05mm increments so if I changed a .11mm out for a larger shim I would then be at .06mm. Doing this way I know all my valves are between .10mm and .15mm right where they should be.
It drives me nuts reading how guys check their valves using 100 feelers. Does it really matter if valve #1 reads exactly .129mm? Lot's of wasted time. Valve shims come in .05mm increments, no need to measure to scientific 1000ths of a MM because you can't change settings except in .05mm steps.

Re:Valve clearances
I take the spark plugs out and use a wrench on the end of the crankshaft (by the points) to turn the crankshaft until the cam lobe is pointing directly away from the lifter bucket. In other words, a line through the cam would be at right angle to the flat face of the lifter bucket. Turn it ONLY in the direction of normal engine rotation, don't reverse direction.

Kawasaki Valve Clearance Checking

Point the lobe directly away from the bucket. Check the clearance. Swap shims if required Spin the motor over a couple of times to fully seat the new shim and double check the clearance.

Set all valves to the maximum loose setting on both intake and exhaust. Your engine will rev better, the valves will have more time to cool because they'll spend more time on the seat.

The only time I would advise checking clearances between the bucket / shim and the base circle on the cam in any other position would be if you had an aftermarket cam and were checking for flaws.

With 4V head & rocker arm adjusters [screw and nut] loosen both locknuts and carefully adjust both lash screws at the same time. When you snug the locknut, you'll generally gain about .0005" in clearance.

That would be .002" ~ .004" (or 0.05mm ~ 0.10mm).

And .0045" would be just fine on the exhaust.

Actually, some folks prefer up to .006" or 0.15mm on the exhaust.


Kawasaki Valve Clearances

Location Bonney lake WA Re: 83 Kz1100 D spectre help with valve, emissions, etc

100PSI will light it off , 125PSI will run reasonably well , 150PSI will run well , 180PSI is about a fresh engine.
all readings are cold with a fully charged battery and dry (no oil in cylinders .

Valve adjust can drastically affect cranking compression .
in thousandths of an inch anything less than .005" put the next thinner shim in .
.008" is about the max clearance . .006" if you like to check often . Any less and you risk closing up a valve through inattention and covering up a marginal valve clearance with carb sync , ignition advance and idle adjustment until you actually hold a valve open . Translation ? neglect your valve adjust = $$$ .

Refer to the FACTORY MANUAL for the procedure . Remember to back off the tensioner before replacing the cam cover and replace after the cover is tightened down . Think about that for a moment .

~kop

davem wrote: I have a 79 kz 1000ltd and I just checked the valve clearance.
After I checked the clearance i was reading and realized i was supposed to do it with the engine cold.
I did it after a ride so the engine was warm.
Will this throw off the actual measurment? most of them were .006 and a couple were .004 which is within spec but would it be different if it was cold?
Is it ok to hear a little noise in the engine? it sounds to me like noise from loose valves. which is why i checked them.

I doubt it threw it off much if you were not burning your fingers. As stated, things shrink when cooling so the gaps will increase a shade which won't hurt you.

On the 750 twin, the original spec was .002" - .004" but I have read several places Kawi opened it up to .002" - .006". I run .003" - .005" so I know it won't be too tight.

Thanks for your help. Front 1-3 is. 006 4 is. 005
Rear 004. 005 005 003.
Compression 1-4 is 155 150 160 160
Should i adjust at all.
thanks

I don't think it needs adjusting, just my opinion.

bountyhunter wrote: I don't think it needs adjusting, just my opinion.

Great! thanks for your help
Dave